A Project Quest

That's what we want Mark. There should be plenty of room in the Spindle Housing to inset most of that. I am sending you 3 sets of bearings. 1 set single row angular, 1 set double row angular and 1 set tapered roller bearings.

"Bill"
 
Bill,

First question: Do we want to get these couplings now ? we can make the spindle end 3/4" for mounting.

Second Question: Do we want to make a standard grinding spindle with a taper on the end to mount the arbor or make the spindle all one piece and machine the end for the wheel?

If we make the taper then we could make an arbor with balance weights on the rear. And seeing the price of a ready made arbor.....:faint:....I say we can make the arbor and the balance system.

D-00220.jpg This is a representation of a simple arbor with no balance system.



D-00180.jpgThis is a representation of an arbor with a shroud to cover the spindle nose to keep crap out.


D-00647.jpgThis is a representation of one with a balance weight groove.......This one gets my vote :grin:


The other option is to machine the end of the spindle to accept a wheel. Simpler but no balance feature.

ANYONE GOT ANY OPINIONS HERE?

D-00220.jpg

D-00180.jpg

D-00647.jpg

D-00220.jpg

D-00180.jpg

D-00647.jpg
 
Given the possibilities, I'd go with the balance system. An out-of-balance wheel is useless. If it can be balanced, it can be used.
 
OK I'll bite. How often are wheels out of balance from the manufacturer? If it was significantly out of balance how difficult would it be to correct? Would it require dynamic balancing like a car wheel?
Robert
 
OK I'll bite. How often are wheels out of balance from the manufacturer? If it was significantly out of balance how difficult would it be to correct? Would it require dynamic balancing like a car wheel?
Robert

Good wheels are normally pretty good. But there is always some small out of balance. Having the balance weights in the hub allows you to correct for minor imperfections and the machine will operate smoother.

A significantly out of balance wheel should never make it out of QA at the factory. If one were to make it into the supply chain it should not be used and returned to the vendor or preferably just destroyed.
 
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What did we decide on the bearings? I know there won't be much axial load on the spindle but can't we just over-design it. Matched pairs or angular contact bearings? Is there a downside?
As a point of discussion- when would you want to use ceramic bearings? I see them on eBay now cheap.
R
 
Bearings are still under discussion. The topic is still open. Mark and I are leaning toward Angular but it is not written in stone yet. Ceramic bearings are usually used in high heat applications if memory serves me correctly. Also in extreme heat, Stellite is used. We made them for the Space Shuttle. They could not turn when installed. They only loosened up under the extreme heat of re-entry. They were in the Gyros. If they moved at the factory they were no good and scraped.

"Bill"
 
All but one of the 6 x 12 surface grinders I ran through the years did not have a balance system on them. They all used the simple arbor except that one.
 
NO wheel is perfectly balanced when made. Most are pretty close. The balance weights allow you to make it better. The weight system is simple and easy to make. The arbor is the difficult part to make but not bad for for someone with threading experience. The balance weights are three small movable weights on the rear or front of the arbor and provide static balancing much like a car wheel.

As for the bearings, there is no downside to "over engineering" them. We want to use bearings that are easily obtainable and reasonable cost as maybe others will want to build this project once they see it can be done reasonably. The bearing use design needs to be decided. Whether we use angular contact or taper roller bearings, they must be installed correctly. The Broadley spindle system uses Bellville washers stacked to provide preload to of around 10 pounds to the bearings and keeps the preload constant as heat goes up by allowing for expansion. the other method is precision ground spacer between bearings to provide the correct preload. this method is less forgiving in building because the spacer must be very accurate. Just a few thousandths too long and everything will get hot and probably ruin the bearings. A few thousandths too short and the bearings will be too loose which will affect the grinding finish. I have built both kinds of spindles and I know which one I prefer, but I would like to hear from the rest of you on this.

Also, what does everyone think about how many bearings. single bearing in each end, matched pair in the wheel end and single bearing in the rear, matched pair in both ends? my thought is single bearing in each end. It is easier and this spindle is fairly short so pairs will probably be too close together.

This is your chance to express your opinion and help decide on all the critical pieces of making a fairly large project, so lets hear some opinions.
 
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Bill, if the bore on the bearings you sent me is larger than .750 ( I hope they are). we can order the couplings if you want. The taper at the end of the spindle , if we go that route is about 1.000" on the large end.
 
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