A hand held drill chuck that doesn't s*%k

@darkzero I'm slowly getting there... Please humor me. Somethings that are obvious to you aren't to me. It just so happens that I recently unearthed a box filled with hex keys! Earlier in the day I was wondering what I would do with them! So the chuck can grab the key. So that's one item that is 'fixed'. What is the other side to hold? To unscrew something, there is the screw and the nut. Where are they in this situation?
 
Ulma Doctor said:
i have made wrenches from sheetmetal and milled or ground them to size

i'm still impressed with my Milwaukee drill chucks- they got their game together with the ratcheting type
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I've ground many a special wrench before, usually from off brand wrench laying around. Right now I'm out of junk wrenches, might have to go to HF to buy some.
 
WobblyHand said:
@darkzero I'm slowly getting there... Please humor me. Somethings that are obvious to you aren't to me. It just so happens that I recently unearthed a box filled with hex keys! Earlier in the day I was wondering what I would do with them! So the chuck can grab the key. So that's one item that is 'fixed'. What is the other side to hold? To unscrew something, there is the screw and the nut. Where are they in this situation?
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Ah now I think I understand what's going on. Your drill does not have the spindle brake or whatever... I think sprag clutch is what it's called? Older cordless drills the spindle can turn freely. On newer cordless drills you can not spin the chuck/spindle except by turning on the motor. So I guess that's what those flats are for that you mentioned, to hold the spindle?

Sorry, I did not think about that. Might get lucky using the impact gun method though if you got one handy.
 
No spindle brake. I'll try making a wrench to fit, but it appears to me that the nut is on the chuck side not the shaft side. So grabbing a key in the chuck and grabbing the flats are basically the same thing! That's what is confusing me. Maybe looks are deceiving though. So I'll give it a try!
 
Awe man. You got me on that one. I'm out of ideas now. There must be some way to hold the spindle. If not apparently visible my guess is somewhere inside the drill?

Haha, I apologize for nudging you into this mess! But I'm rooting for you! :) Please keep us updated!
 
WobblyHand said:
The LH threaded screw came out of the chuck, once I wrapped the chuck in rubber and grabbed it in a vise. It's an M6x1 with a conical taper for the head. However, the chuck itself doesn't want to unthread. There appears to be a 14mm set of flats, but one needs a cone wrench (very thin wrench) to get to it. Actually only guessing at the width, as my calipers won't fit in the gap. The gap is 0.140" between the chuck and the drill body. Would getting a cone wrench help? Or grind down a throw-away wrench? It appears the flats are on the chuck side. The other side (the drill side) as nothing to grip. How does this chuck come off? Grab which piece relative to the other?
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Cone wrenches are generally available in sizes less than 15mm. We know what cone wrenches are, because at one time or another we've adjusted a cone nut bearing. The less-nerdy part of the world knows them as tappet wrenches for adjusting valvetrains. So if you ever decide to go looking, you'll have an easier time finding them.
 
Put the short end of the hex key in the chuck, hold or clamp the handle of the drill down on your workbench, and whack the long end of the hex key with a big hammer. The chuck should break loose and then easily unthread

If it helps you can think of it as a high torque low speed impact driver.
 
jaek said:
Put the short end of the hex key in the chuck, hold or clamp the handle of the drill down on your workbench, and whack the long end of the hex key with a big hammer. The chuck should break loose and then easily unthread

If it helps you can think of it as a high torque low speed impact driver.
Click to expand...

The issue is he has an older drill that does not have the spindle brake feature like cordless drills have now in the past 10 yrs or so.
 
Did you try chucking up the hex key and just rapping it a good blow? I'm thinking that the resistance of trying to back-drive the gear train may be enough for the chuck to break free.

As for saving the twist drills, I use a diamond file to remove such. Just take down the high spots.
 
Well I just looked on YT. So what I mentioned earlier about whacking with a hammer & what jaek also mentioned should work. Guy just whacked the hex key with a hammer & it loosened right up.
 
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