9x20 stuffup

[savarin]

The shaft extends out the front of the apron to get a cir-clip on to hold it in. The clip is the problem, under load it will come off. I did away with this by drilling and tapping the front where the cir-clip is. I turned .010 off the front and added a washer under the screw. I have had no trouble since.

"Billy G"

I like this idea but there is barely enough room between the shaft and the block that holds the feed lever.
Another thing I did do that helped the feed was to add washers behind the gear splines of the pinion to enable more of the thread to engage the rack.
So Bill, how about a thread listing all the mods you performed and how you did them to improve this lathe.
I know there are sites around but something along the lines of Cletus's booklets where all can add any type of improvement small or large.

I would love to add brass STRAIGHT gibs to all the slides instead of the flexi skinny metal there at the moment but dont have a means of milling them.
Back to folding the bellows, just an experiment that is too thin as hot swarf will more than likely burn through it but its a start for a better material.

 

[Rbeckett]

You guys are Killing me, now I have another project added to my to do list. I thought it was long enough already.

Bob

 

[Bill Gruby]

I cut a relief for the washer in that block. There is plenty of meat there........ I meant to quote your post Saverin, about the no room thing. Guess I hit the wrong button. :lmao: To date there are close to 50 changes I made on the 9X20. Some small some big. My next one is to make the cross feed direct reading. Why, just to see if it can be done. :lmao: I believe it will just be a swap of lead screws and nuts. Going from 20 TPI to 40 TPI like a micrometer.

"Billy G"

 

[Bill Gruby]

This is how I relieved it. The block will separate from the apron to facilitate this mod.

"Billy G"

 

[savarin]

This is how I relieved it. The block will separate from the apron to facilitate this mod.

"Billy G"

Not having a mill that never crossed my mind.:banghead: guess a bit of heavy filing is about to occur.

 

[savarin]

Yeah, I'm experimenting with folding an accordion pleat to shield the lot.
A major problem will be removing it everytime I want to use the steady.
I wont replace the pressed tin shield under the apron so at least there wont be a build up in there.

Got the pleat folded, not a simple job, made the steel sheet brackets, but..... I hadnt checked the faceplate clearance first. The pleats didnt fit and fouled the face plate (ok if I only used the 3 jaw).
I have now resorted to an ultra high tech solution, a sheet of paper.
Next trick will be side plates with just enough clearance for the lead screw. I wonder if a stiff bristled brush could be fabricated to fit around the leadscrew to help keep the swarf out of the internals.
I had to shim out the end bracket on the leadscrew at the tailstock end by approx 1/16" to get it to align with the worm bracket.
It all slides nicely now smooth from end to end.

 

[savarin]

I had to shim out the end bracket on the leadscrew at the tailstock end by approx 1/16" to get it to align with the worm bracket.
It all slides nicely now smooth from end to end.

update
I have since found out that this was a bad move. The better procedure is to leave the tailstock end loose, leave the two apron bolts loose, clamp the half nuts properly, then tighten the apron bolts then tighten the tail stock bolts. The shim is not required if doing it this way and it aligns everything up.