4X6 Bandsaw Troubles

dlane said:
I would put it back to how it was when it was cutting great. I’m a firm believer of if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
Those bearings are there to contact the blade and keep it straight
Click to expand...

I hear what your saying. I just can’t help myself. I get a piece of machinery and just like to go through it and set it up to the best of my ability. The manufacturer Cleary states in the manual that the thrust bearing should be set back from the blade .001-.002.
 
Here are some pics.

481EC5B3-ADC3-4E1F-AE4B-C65F0ABB59ED.jpeg31750599-B04D-4E90-A32E-F06BFA559132.jpegA71E804D-D028-49B5-BD98-0F7230008794.jpeg
 
That blade is tracking high right off the wheel. The wheel may need to be pulled out on the shaft a bit to make it run at the right height. I would measure how much lower the blade needs to be to cut through and then move the pulley out that much. Either that pulley was removed at one time or the shoulder the blade runs against is worn badly.
 
Billh50 said:
That blade is tracking high right off the wheel. The wheel may need to be pulled out on the shaft a bit to make it run at the right height. I would measure how much lower the blade needs to be to cut through and then move the pulley out that much. Either that pulley was removed at one time or the shoulder the blade runs against is worn badly.
Click to expand...

So when you are referring to the drive wheel and top wheel?
 
Bill is right, the main drive wheel and main idler wheel may need to be re-spaced to get the blade closer to the table. The bearings in the guides
that push against the back edge of the blade can make a small amount of correction, but the basic plane of the blade is set by the main wheels
Mark
ps the factory may not have set the saw up correctly to begin with- not unexpected with China products- it's called customer quality control
 
Last edited:
Yep....sounds like wheels need to be respaced to set blade just below the table so it will cut through stock. Either someone had them off at one time or they were never set properly at the factory.
 
Billh50 said:
Yep....sounds like wheels need to be respaced to set blade just below the table so it will cut through stock. Either someone had them off at one time or they were never set properly at the factory.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. I’ve been all through this saw. I Had the idler wheel off and tried spacing that. No one else has been in it. The drive wheel can’t com out any further without losing the circlip.

I’ll keep chipping away at it.

Thanks for the help.
 
The inboard guide bearings twist the blade so it’s 90* to the table or your blade would be same angle as wheels, the thrust bearings ride on top of blade to keep blade straight and can have a little clearance .
I keep all my bearings on the blade, that’s what there for , I’ve cut miles of steel with it without a problem ,
It’s a rong fu but probably came out of same factory
 
D2950B0A-5208-4762-906C-2B3F5005727F.pngE46FDB77-7A88-4E7E-91DF-A043CEC06864.pngHere’s some pics of my manual on how to check and adjust your wheels. I don’t know if yours has the capability. Your blade should not be riding on the step of your drive or idler wheels. If they are this will help.
From the look at the pictures your definitely higher in the “crotch” of the cut. You should be at opposite attck angle.
What’s the hinge look like for the saw is it cast into the frame or bolted?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top