3 Jaw chuck broken

Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

Do you know anyone with a TIG welder. If so have him build up the area of the broken tooth, then anneal the part. you can then use a die grinder or files to shape the tooth until it fits then reharden it again. I've done it so I know it works,
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

machinist18 said:
Do you know anyone with a TIG welder. If so have him build up the area of the broken tooth, then anneal the part. you can then use a die grinder or files to shape the tooth until it fits then reharden it again. I've done it so I know it works,
Click to expand...

I have mig welder not a tig unit. It was my hope to do just that and grind in the tooth profile. Yes, annealing the weld will make it possible to shape the tooth. Are pinions hardened?
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

dbq49 said:
Great effort Ron!!! I did find a "made in England" on the back. After cleaning all the gunk from the inside, I wire wheeled the jaw, polished the ring and tried the fits. I found that the jaws would not slide in the grooves. I had to take the dremmel and a thin metal cutting disc and deburr all the parts till they slid easily. I was surprised how much better is works now. 60 years of binding?? I am still trying of figure out if I want to braze in a tooth. The broken tooth fits well but getting it to sit there while I braze it is an other issue.
Thanks to all that are helping!
Click to expand...

If the broken tooth fits well, why cant you just clamp it lightly so that it doesn't move, then braze it. Thou could also v out the sides a little with a small dremel grinder , maybe ....to get some braze ,metal in there. Just a thought.
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

I had a Made in England chuck with the same problem. I found a Jacobs chuck key almost the same size as the broken pinion
that would fit in there. I took off the handle and let the stub stick out of the chuck. It was tightened with a rod that fit the hole.
It stuck out but was not worse than some four jaw chuck set ups. It worked as well as it did before.
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

I agree with Tony: If the chuck has 3 tightening pinions,leave that one without teeth and tighten the other 2.

No reply on that yet.

I don't think a brazed tooth is going to hold together. If this is the only pinion,I would get a new chuck.

Clever use of the Jacobs chuck key. Could be dangerous though. I'd bet it would not fit the scroll real well,though,and could damage it. Not that that mattered,if you can't find a new part anyway.
 
don't braze it silver solder the tooth back in it will work fine,silver has a lot more strength than brazing. Use a piece of silver flatten out under the tooth, don't forget the flux, and clamp it.
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

Brain Coral,that is a very useful link,provided they have the exactly correct pinion. The trouble is,England has not instituted some HIGH minimum shipping rate ($20-$30 minimum???) Someone correct me,please.

This means,if you don't know the exact model of the chuck,you will end up with over $60.00 invested,just to get a look at the pinion they send you. That one in the picture isn't his correct one,either.

One time I was trying to buy a set of 6 jaw chucks from an American company. They sent the wrong jaws twice before they got it right. At least shipping wasn't overseas.

Seems to me that England is hurting commerce by putting such a high fee on shipping. I have turned down a few nice antique chisels or other fine woodworking tools on Ebay(from England) because of the new sky high rates. They would have doubled the already stiff prices!

Look up the conversion rate of dollars to pounds before you buy anything. Last time I checked,it was about 1.62 for 1 American dollar,but it changes.
 
Re: 3 Jaw chuck briken

Hello George,

The example of a pinion that I provided a link to was, just that... an example... There are very detailed drawings and specifications to find what you are looking for on the website. When I first emailed the company with the model and serial number of the chuck, I was informed that this information was meaningless to them. They did provide a link to what they thought would be the part I was looking for and requested exact measurements to verify... and it was exactly what I required. If you take some careful measurements of an existing part, they will likely have what you need.

I agree that it isn't cheap, but if you really need that part.... shipping..... for me it was cheaper than most shipping costs on Ebay from the U.S to Canada. The 4-jaw chuck that I have is in real good shape other than the one operating screw. Me thinks that someone left the chuck key in the chuck and then turned it on... :yikes:

I must admit, the part sent to me was very serviceable and fit the chuck, but was a little rough in the finish. I had to deburr the part before installing it.

Cheers... :)

Brian
 
Sorry to drag an old thread up. I was about to go through the same process but managed to sort out the problem I had with a 3 jaw Burnerd chuck I was under the impression that prat Burnerd was taken over by the 600 group and that parts for the their chucks were still supported IE the number stamped into the jaw slot matched the number on the jaw allowing for replacement jaws, scrolls etc however on my chuck the scroll has an engraved number on it that is different to the body number and jaw no in my case this old lathe is new to me the chuck would bind, take the jaws out and it was nice and the jaws were nice, scroll problem! found some damage to the lead of the scroll and about 15 mill in from the lead so I suspect that the previous owner had impacted the out side jaw when it was on the last turn on outside of the scroll. The out side jaws did not come with the lathe. I was waiting for the Christmas break to finish before contacting the 600 group to get replacement outside jaws and just cleaned up the lead with a file and filed off the lump 15 mill in reassembled the chuck with a little smear of copper coat on the rubbing surfaces and runs like silk now
 
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