2021 POTD Thread Archive

If you remember about a month ago i bought this Famco E arbor press. It was sitting outside under a roof but still in the elements. I took it apart a few days ago and cleaned up the other parts and today i finally got to taking a good wire wheel in a air grinder and had at it. Tmr i will be taping up important parts and putting down a base coat of Rattle paint to get it primed.38C221C9-03D9-4BB8-A234-BE2F7D0B38C9.pngCB724980-5EAB-482B-823B-4EA32ED3F9C2.jpeg
Then tonight i finally finished the Tnut for my toolpost on my lathe after a month of working on it.(not happy about the time frame). Now i need to load up some tools and i can start doing some projects on both machines.67B91842-417F-422D-89EE-77C73F0B2BA8.jpeg
 
It's just something I found on the interwebs some time ago. No info regarding provenance or accuracy.

I will go so far as to speculate that the facets of the compound eyes that directly face the camera might well appear differently than those viewed more edge-on ... thus giving he impression of pupils.
-or-
The photographer might well have placed a white (reflective) card with a round hole for the camera lens in front of the spider, so as to provide more even illumination. What look like iris lines are probably hairs or shadows of hairs. I ain't no entomologist, nor do I play one on TV. So it's all pure guesswork.
 
Fixed my cell phone holster — twice.

Actually I did one a couple days ago already but who’s counting. Anyway, I’m one of those throwbacks who still favours a belt clip holster and I had one that was working okay but then the springy latch thing broke. Well, not right off but cracked enough so that the phone was no longer secure. You can see the weak point and associated crack at about eight o’clock off the rivet head in the first photo.

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So I bought another one (of course you have to get the rubbery phone sheath as well because they don’t just sell the plastic holster) and carried on. Then the second one broke — same place, exactly the same failure point — and darned if I was going to shell out another seventy bucks for a third holster in less than two years. So, fixit time.

I notched a scrap of 0.60” polycarbonate I had kicking around so it would slide around the swivel clip and then judiciously popped in a few aluminum rivets at some key locations. The goal here was to maintain a certain amount of flexing tension but spread it out over a wider area.

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And surprise surprise it works great! The phone snaps in nice and tight again and the raised edges on the rubbery sheath allow the rivet heads to clear the screen. So back in service and a spare now to boot!

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Thanks for looking!

-frank
 
fixed a broken Jacobs 18N super chuck I got in an auction lot. Was locked up when I got it, so made a ring to hold the sleeve and pressed it apart. Turns out that the thrust washer was in lots of little pieces, but the rest of it was largely fine. Had some maybe 400 series stainless in about the right size.

mounted in steady (just!) and turned/ bored to size
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big picture shot + first time using the steady on my SB
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parted off and sanded down to final size (0.068"?), next to the bearing (right) and original thrust washer (left)
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in place
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back together, works nice'n'smooth
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then drilled a 3/8" hole through the bottom of the chuck and pressed the MT4 arbor out. Now I can stick it on a MT2 arbor and using it on my SB :)
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Nice work MTM. I once drilled a 1/4 hole in a chuck and used a 1/4" punch to knock the taper out. Don't ever do that! The problem is that the punch mushroomed ever so slightly. Just enough to prevent me from getting the punch out!
Robert
 
@mattthemuppet2

Nice fix.

I have a similar job ahead. Manufacturer had a ball type thrust bearing wearing on an anodized aluminum surface. I'm adding a proper thrust washer. It's a very thin annulus that I could not find, so I bought a standard size from McMaster, that has a suitable ID , and will grind the OD as required. You might consider the same approach if the 400 series doesn't satisfy.
 
Nice work MTM. I once drilled a 1/4 hole in a chuck and used a 1/4" punch to knock the taper out. Don't ever do that! The problem is that the punch mushroomed ever so slightly. Just enough to prevent me from getting the punch out!
Robert
That's exactly how I do it, but I ream to a close fit and fill the cavity with heavy oil. The punch acts like a hydraulic pump and pops the chuck right off.
 
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thanks all, I did have a look for hardened washers about the right size, but could find any with 2 of the 3 dimensions (thickness, ID and OD). Plus I was impatient, cheap and wanted to test out my SB :) If it starts getting notchy I'll have a look again.

There was some trial and mostly error with the 1st one (an 14N from the same auction), that mostly involved using too small of a pin and lots of farting around. 2nd 14N was better, using a 5/16" rod, but I learned the benefits of using ear protection when pressing things apart. This was the 3rd one and worked a charm. Using oil for the hydraulics would certainly help, but for the 18N I used an old boring bar shank (horrible steel) which had 2 flats.
 
I finished a wheeled dolly for my power hacksaw. Similar design to the one I made for my bandsaw last year. It has locking castors so it shouldn't run off when the saw is running. The saw weighs about 250lbs so this will make it easier to tuck out of the way when not being used.

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