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2020 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter eugene13
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2015
- Messages
- 829
I finally had a chance to get an old wood lathe stand built. I saw a video by "Wesley Treat" about adding castors to a welding table (here, if you want to know), and wanted to implement something similar on my wood lathe stand. It works pretty slick, and I'm going to do the same for my south bend heavy 10. I don't have a lot of room, so I can't bolt it down. That will allow me to move tools out when I need them. First, the stand (from a distance) :
Then a picture along the bottom with the stand seated :
And finally a picture along the bottom showing the legs suspended with the arm down :
It's workable with a single foot. I still need a locking mechanism, and I still need to make a spacer and lock those front arms in place (they can slide off the pins pretty easily right now). Then I can add the lathe itself.
Then a picture along the bottom with the stand seated :
And finally a picture along the bottom showing the legs suspended with the arm down :
It's workable with a single foot. I still need a locking mechanism, and I still need to make a spacer and lock those front arms in place (they can slide off the pins pretty easily right now). Then I can add the lathe itself.
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2019
- Messages
- 1,043
I had a heck of a time figuring out where to make the bends by trial and error. There is probably a formula for doing that so the outside of the "U" will be the correct measurement each time.
I had to mill some off each side to get the right spacing to fit between the lips on the TO arm.
Another learning experience!
I had to mill some off each side to get the right spacing to fit between the lips on the TO arm.
Another learning experience!
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2019
- Messages
- 1,043
T & A got me pretty close on the 2nd try!
Srarted with a blank of 3/16 x 1, 3.5" long.
My die is 4"X 4" w/4 different "vee's" and is an actual cutoff from a huge press brake and HEAVY!!~
Did I mention that it is heavy??
The press is home made.
Inserted the blank to within .75" of the edge and bent 90*
Did this on each end.
My "U" turned out a hair too wide so I had to mill some off each side to make it fit inside the arm as well as the end of the legs to get the same length and fit.
Hated to have to do that as it thinned the portion that supports the clevis pin and that's where the wear happens and the reason for making them from thicker mat's. However, eve with doing that I am still thicker than the OEM parts.
I wonder what .80" offset would result in?
Today, I have to figure out how I am going to hold the part to drill the 3/8" pin hole and do it repeatedly w/the same results. Not having a square outside corner might make this somewhat of a challenge.
Srarted with a blank of 3/16 x 1, 3.5" long.
My die is 4"X 4" w/4 different "vee's" and is an actual cutoff from a huge press brake and HEAVY!!~
Did I mention that it is heavy??
The press is home made.
Inserted the blank to within .75" of the edge and bent 90*
Did this on each end.
My "U" turned out a hair too wide so I had to mill some off each side to make it fit inside the arm as well as the end of the legs to get the same length and fit.
Hated to have to do that as it thinned the portion that supports the clevis pin and that's where the wear happens and the reason for making them from thicker mat's. However, eve with doing that I am still thicker than the OEM parts.
I wonder what .80" offset would result in?
Today, I have to figure out how I am going to hold the part to drill the 3/8" pin hole and do it repeatedly w/the same results. Not having a square outside corner might make this somewhat of a challenge.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2015
- Messages
- 829
I installed the electric choke on the Holley carburetor today (except for the last wire). The manual choke that was on there :
And the electric choke installed (all except the power wire) :
Now I know how I need to route my fuel line for better clearance (and to get it away from the engine to avoid heat soak).
And the electric choke installed (all except the power wire) :
Now I know how I need to route my fuel line for better clearance (and to get it away from the engine to avoid heat soak).
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
I did this yesterday... I managed to straighten (as much as I could) the bottom members of my second hand hydraulic press, and managed to get the bows out of the table where the previous owner had used the wrong side of it when pressing something and dished in both sides. Oh, and I found some thick heavy stock and cut two new press plates to be used on the table the right way. 
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2018
- Messages
- 171
A neighbor was saying his Duro drill press was acting up and brought it over for me to look at. Removing the belt cover I saw that the spindle pulley had a rather noticeable nod to it and could freely tip in any direction. After spending some time to remove a broken tensioning bolt on the motor mount I was able to release the belt which was as tight as a banjo. (That probably at least had a little to do with this problem) The pulley bore was totally wallowed out and the spindle had some scaring/ galling.
I was able to clean the spindle up and got a measurement for the bushing. The pulley was bored large enough to fit a bushing in while trying to leave as much wall thickness as possible. The bushing was just made from some 1018 and pressed in. All back together now and once again in service.
The damage:
The fix:
I was able to clean the spindle up and got a measurement for the bushing. The pulley was bored large enough to fit a bushing in while trying to leave as much wall thickness as possible. The bushing was just made from some 1018 and pressed in. All back together now and once again in service.
The damage:
The fix:
