2019 POTD Thread Archive

@jdedmon91 , you should consider a billet bushing. There are a bunch of ways to stiffen the linkage, and when done right it'll feel like it's supposed to. IPG parts has been good to me, so I'm plugging them.
billetshifterbushing1-01.jpg
 
@jdedmon91 , you should consider a billet bushing. There are a bunch of ways to stiffen the linkage, and when done right it'll feel like it's supposed to. IPG parts has been good to me, so I'm plugging them.
billetshifterbushing1-01.jpg

The truth is a friend handed me the busted bushing and I decided to duplicate it. I had the material and the time so I helped them out


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Have been looking for a 3hp single phase 220-240V motor for the 216 Quincy compressor I recently got up and running. Have been using a 5hp Baldor on it, but it's destined for a larger unit I'm finishing up. Remembered there were several motors in the trailer full of stuff I brought back from my dad's old shop. Took a look inside, and just like Goldilocks, some were to big, some were to small, but one was just right. Unfortunately it appeared to have been dropped from a great height, and would only turn 180 deg.. Hauled it into the shop, and tore it down. The fan cover had a 1 1/2" dent in the bottom and the plastic fan was cracked and missing several blades. Hammered out the fan cover, then proceeded to go to work on the motor base, which was bent out of shape in pretty much every plane. Got out the carburetor fine adjustment tool (24" cresent wrench) and worked it back into some semblance of straight and true, getting the last bit with a round of heat and beat. The shaft and armature were fine, with the exception of a few bent fins on the internal fan, and a few bent alum tangs on the armature, but the rear bearing would only go half a turn. Ordered Chinese sealed replacements from E-pay for $8 for both and free shipping. As I do with all Chinese bearings, I pulled the seals, flushed them out, and repacked them with a US made product. After sealing off internals, I bead blasted the housing and end covers, then put a coat of clear on the alum end covers, and Safety Blue on the rest. Let the paint dry overnight and assembled it today, did a quick hookup to my welder extension cord, and she runs like a champ. Still have to come up with a solution for the external cooling fan, but overall, pretty happy with result. Mike

Tried uploading pics for this, but no joy. Have never had a problem before. Anyone else having issues, or is it just me? Thanks, Mike

OK, went over to the GJ forum and posted the same pics I've been trying to post here, and no issue. Copied them from there and attached here, but still can't post here from my pics directly. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? No issues before this. Thanks, Mike

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I spent some time this weekend working on a tail stock for my 9A. I did some trading for a Boxford tail stock that needed some repair. The camshaft and handle was missing and the end of the screw was pretty chewed up. I made the repairs and mounted it on the bed. Dialing it in will have to wait until I'm done with the bench so I can level it out. I took a cut the way it sits and it was off by 0.003 front to back. I can't seem to upload photos today. It says the file is too big for the server. Never had that happen before. View attachment 300515
Hi Chuck can i ask is there any adjuster to go with that eccentric tail stock lock?.Reason i ask is i have a boxford lathe but have never noticed any adjuster for tail stock lock .And i know mines getting a little loose so wondering if it can be adjusted or if i need a new eccentric.Nice work that Chuck
 
Have been looking for a 3hp single phase 220-240V motor for the 216 Quincy compressor I recently got up and running.

What kind of 3 phase power do you have in your shop?
 
Hi Chuck can i ask is there any adjuster to go with that eccentric tail stock lock?.Reason i ask is i have a boxford lathe but have never noticed any adjuster for tail stock lock .And i know mines getting a little loose so wondering if it can be adjusted or if i need a new eccentric.Nice work that Chuck
You adjust the tension by tightening the nut on the bottom. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question. If you're talking about slop in the shaft, there is no adjustment for that. There's a set screw that fits the groove at the end of the shaft, but it just keeps the shaft from moving laterally.
 
You adjust the tension by tightening the nut on the bottom. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question. If you're talking about slop in the shaft, there is no adjustment for that. There's a set screw that fits the groove at the end of the shaft, but it just keeps the shaft from moving laterally.
Got it thanks Chuck
 
You'll need to ensure your cross slide (and top slide) gibs are very well adjusted (tightened). You have a very large overhang of the workpiece from the narrow cross slide dovetails and a beast of a cutter.

It might even be a good idea to consider a brace on the cross slide, picking up support on a sliding rail near the tailstock to give it a better rigidity.

You can get an idea of your rigidity using a dial indicator and heaving on the vise in a direction to and from the headstop.
 
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