2019 POTD Thread Archive

[jdedmon91]

Well I needed a tool holder for the bathroom. Made up a bracket to hold my shaving brush and razor. Here is the video

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BGHansen]

Please tell us some more about your laser center finder. Looks slick! Is it the kind that sends out a dot, and makes a circle as the quill spins ... or does it generate the circles without rotation.

Hi John,

In case you are interested, the web site is: https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/

Also a YouTube video of it in use:

Also a post here from May after I bought the latest one off eBay for around $60.

What Did You Buy Today?

So , as I said yesterday , I got a brand new Jacobs 14N Super Ball Bearing chuck in here at work yesterday . Came from MSC . First thing I notice is the letters and all are etched in on the chuck . Second thing I notice is a SVC KIT etch . Third thing I did NOT notice was anything being familiar...

www.hobby-machinist.com

They retail for $164.50 but got all three of mine off eBay for about that amount total.



I have 2 of the concentric circle units and 1 of the cross hair units. They make a simple dot version also. Mine all have 3/8" shanks. I've purchased about every conceivable way to find a line/pricked hole/existing hole: Mechanical edge finder, wiggler, piece of paper on the edge, centering scope, Blake co-ax, Dial test indicator in an Indical on the spindle, electronic edge finder with light and tone/ light only, and the laser devices.

I'd say the laser is the second quickest method. Quickest at finding an edge is an existing end mill and a piece of paper - no tool change required. I can easily hit within 0.007" on a pricked hole or centering up on an existing hole. I've played around locking the table, zero'ing the DRO and drilling/reaming a hole. Then move off and try to find center with the laser. Easily get within 0.007" of the DRO and usually better than 0.003".

I use a mechanical edge finder the most for zero'ing on a vise, but use a Bore-rite (sp?) also which is electronic with a light only. I've never tried the laser for finding an edge, so can't vouch for the accuracy or repeatability.

I used to use a wiggler with a sharp point to find center punched holes, but now use the laser. I used my centering scope once to find a pricked hole. It's been setting in the case since.

Bruce

 

[GoceKU]

Today i had a busy day but i still wanted to finish turning this spacer i started on yesterday, so i started by centre drilling it then going bigger and bigger with the drill bits till i used my 45mm drill bit, i have a 80mm drill that i wanted to use but this hole is only 20 mm deep so the bigger drill bit will only chamfered it before the nose hits. For most of the boring i used a big sandvik tool holder and insert wich made for quick material removal, the hub on the Little Niva is 98,5mm so i made the bore 98,8 and cut a big chamfer. This project was not hard but did took some time, i finished just past midnight today, i'll need to transfer the bolt hole patterns and drill, tap and contra drill the holes.

 

[RJSakowski]

Hi John,

In case you are interested, the web site is: https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/

Also a YouTube video of it in use:

Also a post here from May after I bought the latest one off eBay for around $60.

What Did You Buy Today?

So , as I said yesterday , I got a brand new Jacobs 14N Super Ball Bearing chuck in here at work yesterday . Came from MSC . First thing I notice is the letters and all are etched in on the chuck . Second thing I notice is a SVC KIT etch . Third thing I did NOT notice was anything being familiar...

www.hobby-machinist.com

They retail for $164.50 but got all three of mine off eBay for about that amount total.

View attachment 290221

I have 2 of the concentric circle units and 1 of the cross hair units. They make a simple dot version also. Mine all have 3/8" shanks. I've purchased about every conceivable way to find a line/pricked hole/existing hole: Mechanical edge finder, wiggler, piece of paper on the edge, centering scope, Blake co-ax, Dial test indicator in an Indical on the spindle, electronic edge finder with light and tone/ light only, and the laser devices.

I'd say the laser is the second quickest method. Quickest at finding an edge is an existing end mill and a piece of paper - no tool change required. I can easily hit within 0.007" on a pricked hole or centering up on an existing hole. I've played around locking the table, zero'ing the DRO and drilling/reaming a hole. Then move off and try to find center with the laser. Easily get within 0.007" of the DRO and usually better than 0.003".

I use a mechanical edge finder the most for zero'ing on a vise, but use a Bore-rite (sp?) also which is electronic with a light only. I've never tried the laser for finding an edge, so can't vouch for the accuracy or repeatability.

I used to use a wiggler with a sharp point to find center punched holes, but now use the laser. I used my centering scope once to find a pricked hole. It's been setting in the case since.

Bruce

I used a different approach for a laser center finder. I mount mine in my bring head which allows me to adjust the circle size. Since the laser rotates in the spindle, it is guaranteed to be concentric with the spindle axis. I found it to be accurate to +/- .001" The description is found at post #10872 in this thread. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...in-your-shop-today.14637/page-363#post-553286

 

[GoceKU]

Today i decided is time to get back to work on the Little Niva, last thing i did is to prep the passenger door for fixing, i was looking for a stud gun to borrow or buy to pull out the big dent on the door and small one on the roof, i could not find a stud gun so i did it old school, first i made, this heavy duty slide hammer, with a strong clamp, also cut couple of strips of metal and weld them in the dings, then i clamp to them and using the slide hammer and pounded the dents out, the russians used some really thick steel so it took some force to get the dents out, i did use my body work hummer to bring down couple of spots then i grounded the welds down and check it with a ruler for high spots, about 3/16 layer of body filler should cover everything so i left it alone. I could not access the backside of those dents, because it has two more layers of steel. I'm surprised how light this little 4x4 is considering how thick steel everything is made from. Making the slide hammer, and fixing the dents did took me the rest of the afternoon.

 

[Franko]

I got a new open barrel wire crimper.
Check out this beautiful rolled crimp on this tiny little Molex connector.
It’ll do bigger ones up to about 16 ga, too. I ordered me up an assortment of open barrel connectors.



Iwiss SN-48B Ratcheting Pin Crimping Tool 3.96/4.8/5.08/6.3 mm 26-16AWG Crimper
0.14-1.5mm² For Open Barrel Terminals.
I found it on Amazon for about $18.

 

[thomas s]

Franko, That came out great could you give us the name of the of the tool you used.

 

[Franko]

Franko, That came out great could you give us the name of the of the tool you used.

You jumped in before my edit to include the crimper.
Iwiss SN-48B Pin Crimping Tools 3.96/4.8/5.08/6.3 mm 26-16AWG Crimper
0.14-1.5mm² For Open Barrel Terminals

I added a picture of it on the original post.
I found it on Amazon for about $18.

 

[GoceKU]

Franco, a good set of crimping pliers are very expensive but when you've used them once, you never want to go back to a cheap set, here is one of my favorites that i use every time i'm doing wiring.

 

[Franko]

Franco, a good set of crimping pliers are very expensive but when you've used them once, you never want to go back to a cheap set, here is one of my favorites that i use every time i'm doing wiring.

Yeah, they had much more expensive ones, too. I have no complaints about this Iwess model. It does a great job, is easy to use, and seems to be very well made.

I also purchased another Iwess that does insulated barrel connectors. It is great.

IWISS SN-02C Ratcheting Wire Crimping Plier Tools
for Insulated Terminals and Butt Connectors Crimper