Hey Jeff, I made the wheels.
I’m afraid I don’t have more in-progress photos, this really wasn’t a complicated project. I had the skate bearings (roller blade bearings, ABEC-3 which are the cheapies) that are 608ZZ so 8mm shaft size, 7mm wide I think, and 22mm OD. You can look up those numbers to make sure, I convert everything to inch when I work so I may have got one sideways.
The wheels started out as 2” 1018 bar that I took four pucks off of and went from there. Here’s my checklist (I do these lists on my phone sometimes when I’m watching TV and thinking about my next operations), but just be aware it’s in reverse order now because I’ve completed all the tasks if you know what I mean. iPhone puts the ticked item at the bottom of the list when it’s done, so the completed list is backwards from the way I completed it. You’ll see what I mean, just start from the bottom.
Here’s a couple close-ups of the mounted wheels and bearings. I aimed for a light press fit in everything but ended up closer to slip fit with a bit of threadlocker. I also bushed the 8mm shaft bore to a press fit for the #10-24 button heads using a bit of acetal I had lying around. An 8mm bolt would have been way too meaty for the application.
There is a very small crown to the wheels in addition to the tapered sides. The wheel ODs are 1.875” with a 10 degree taper each side leaving about 50 thousandths in the centre to accept the crown by hand file after. Total wheel thickness is 0.275” at the hub.
I derived the wheel spacing (to get the overlap) from looking at a picture of a Sopko balancer and extrapolated from that. With my wheels of 1-7/8” diameter, the wheel spacing ended up being 1.1895” which I rounded to 1.2” for the actual build. I don’t know that it’s terribly critical, but I could do it easily so I did. This is typical of the planning detail I went to on this project... . As you can see, it’s very advanced
The critical thing in my opinion is the accurate preparation of the stub arbor and order of operations at the lathe. Because you cannot unmount the stub arbor without losing accuracy, be certain you have any spacers, washers, etc turned before starting the arbor. Otherwise you’ll lose your concentricity if you need to take the arbor out before you’re done all the wheels.
And that’s pretty much it. If you need or want any other details / dimensions just let me know. I’d be happy to give you anything else you need.
-frank