2018 POTD Thread Archive

[GreatOldOne]

but isn’t there a brake pedal in between the gas a clutch?

Ahem. Yes. Ten points to Gryffindor, for spotting my mistake.

What I meant was the gas and the brake. It’s quite an eye opener when you hit the brake, and the engine starts reving it’s nuts off.

 

[Ray C]

... Got the homemade surface grinder spindle mounted on the base and started to make the safety cover.

The latest work is posted here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/ko-lee-cutter-grinder-revamp.65608/page-3





Ray

 

[BGHansen]

POTD was making a couple of sheet metal trays for some Erector sets I’m restoring for sale on eBay. Quick history lesson . . .

The A. C. Gilbert Company started displaying parts on sheet steel trays in the wooden boxed sets starting in 1928. One of the appealing things about these sets was the display of all the shiny new parts when you opened the box lid. The sheet steel was 0.020” thick and had a double bend on the edges so it rested on the edges of the wooden box and was recessed to give some clearance for the parts setting on top.

I’m putting together a couple of 1931 No. 8 Hudson Locomotive sets for sale on eBay. The one in the attached picture sold for $1600 a few years ago. I have one set all inventoried and ready to go, plus a second one that just missing one key piece. Well, one key piece other than the sheet metal tray.

Pretty simple project if your wife lets you have the proper tools in your shop! Cut the blanks to size on my Tennsmith shear. Then notched the corners on a 6” x 6” 4-ton notcher. Did the bending of the trays on my Di-Acro finger break.

Now the fun part. The No. 8 Hudson trays had 10 rows of holes by 23 columns spaced 1” apart. The top and bottom rows are spaced ½” from the adjacent rows, rest are spaced 1” apart. I’ve made these before by gluing in some graph paper and going to town. This time I made a fence/ punch guide from some 0.018” sheet metal. Hand laid out the holes, center punched and punched them with a Roper Whitney No. 5 Junior hand punch. Folded a 90 on one edge to give the guide some stiffness.

Hand laid out the first and last columns of holes, center punched, and punched the holes on my Roper Whitney No. 218 punch press. Used a piece of Delrin for a stripper as the sheet metal catches on the punch after knocking in the hole. Screwed the punch guide to the tray and punched away. Took me about 30 minutes to knock in the 230 holes. Then a wipe down with some lacquer thinner and a couple of coats of Chevy Orange Red engine paint.

Hope to get at least $1200 for each of the sets once they hit eBay. Papa wants a Doall 20” band saw!

Thanks for looking, Bruce

 

[rdean]

I re-cut the numbers and lines on my rotary table.



Thanks Ray

 

[ecdez]

I made a "stash box" for my bus. No real place in those for securing something you don't want to carry around. It's 0.090" aluminum so if someone really want's in there's no stopping them but the box is pretty well hidden under the seat and keep things out of sight and moderately secure. Won't be a smash and grab at least ; you gotta work for it.

 

[Ray C]

.

Took a break from making the safety shield for the surface grinder and spent some time fine-tuning the hub mechanism. Also cut some buffer pads for both sides of the wheel.

Read about buffer pads and why they are important here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/ko-lee-cutter-grinder-revamp.65608/page-3

So far, so good... Although tricky to get a precise reading, it looks like the entire hub re-installs with under 1 thou TIR.


Ray

 

[rwm]

ecdez - Brilliant idea using a router to trim the sides. Any tips on the type of bit? Composition and shape? Carbide?
Robert

 

[ecdez]

ecdez - Brilliant idea using a router to trim the sides. Any tips on the type of bit? Composition and shape? Carbide?
Robert

Thanks man!

The bit is a standard flush trim router bit that I got out of a Grizzly multi-bit set. Not even great quality. Looks similar to this.

 

[magicniner]

Extended Router Bits for fitting 6" latches in our new internal doors,



because the carpenter doing the job suggested everything but cutting the 6" deep apertures for latches that gave the correct set back and we want a period correct look -

 

[stioc]

Improved the design of the 4 bolt compound mount I posted on the previous page. I like it much better now as I can see the angles and reach the bolts much easier now.