2018 POTD Thread Archive

[johnnyc14]

I used a cheap Mastercraft 3/4" socket, some 7/16" CRS and two 3/4" steel balls to make this speed handle for my Kurt vise. I drilled and tapped 3/8" holes in the balls and threaded both ends of the rod. I prefer just 2 arms on the handle instead of three like you see on most of them. It was nice to get out into the shop for a couple of hours for this.
Cheers


I didn't anneal the socket. I wanted to maintain the hardness so the handle won't come loose over time.I drilled through it with a 3/16" then a 7/16" carbide end mill instead of drill bits and it was pretty easy. The knurl increased the OD of the handle enough that it is a very snug press fit into the socket. I used the hydraulic press at work to install it. I used this particular socket because the 3/4" hex on the inside runs the entire length of the socket so it slides all the way onto the vise screw and it's very secure and wont fall off.

Got the balls from this eBay vendor.
http://stores.ebay.ca/Gosenindustry?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
I got these stainless ones.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-4-Inch-19...aring-Balls-/322272643622?hash=item4b08f24a26

 

[extropic]

I used a cheap Mastercraft 3/4" socket, some 7/16" CRS and two 3/4" steel balls to make this speed handle for my Kurt vise. snip . . .

Nice project but EXCELLENT post, IMHO. You gave us details including your reasoning and features of the parts and process not obvious in the picture. I'm sure that many viewers appreciate the extra effort it takes to be so thorough, as I do. Thank you.

 

[jdedmon91]

I used a cheap Mastercraft 3/4" socket, some 7/16" CRS and two 3/4" steel balls to make this speed handle for my Kurt vise. I drilled and tapped 3/8" holes in the balls and threaded both ends of the rod. I prefer just 2 arms on the handle instead of three like you see on most of them. It was nice to get out into the shop for a couple of hours for this.
Cheers


I didn't anneal the socket. I wanted to maintain the hardness so the handle won't come loose over time.I drilled through it with a 3/16" then a 7/16" carbide end mill instead of drill bits and it was pretty easy. The knurl increased the OD of the handle enough that it is a very snug press fit into the socket. I used the hydraulic press at work to install it. I used this particular socket because the 3/4" hex on the inside runs the entire length of the socket so it slides all the way onto the vise screw and it's very secure and wont fall off.

Got the balls from this eBay vendor.
http://stores.ebay.ca/Gosenindustry?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
I got these stainless ones.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-4-Inch-19...aring-Balls-/322272643622?hash=item4b08f24a26

Posted this earlier my speed handle. I used 2 sockets cut off and machined to the same thickness as the handle. The bored the handle to a shrink so the sockets would not move. I’ve done several projects with sockets that involved either drilling or machining them



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[Bill W.]

PMing my roto tiller. Spring finally sprung and my garden is calling, it's raining today but supposed to be clear the rest of the week. My machine is an 1989 Troy Built "Horse" that I bought as a present to myself when we finished building our house. I've found the best way to put oil in one of these small engines is to use a squeeze bottle, this one originally held green slimy tire stop leak, I had to reinforce the caps threads with a hose clamp. The gear boxes use 140 WT gear oil and it's getting hard to find, Alemite is the only vendor. In the background is an 1983 Ford F-100 step side that my son and I are putting together for my grand daughter. This is the last year of the F-100.

I like the home-built "roll-around" under the tool boxes... nice wide foot print, looks good...

 

[GreatOldOne]

I finished restoring my York vise / Wilton power arm combo by polishing up the power arm by stripping it down and refinishing each part on the lathe, and then bolting it all together with the adapter plate I made at the weekend.


It’s not a baby bullet (stupid prices, not available in the UK, shipping extortionate - it was bad enough on the 2nd hand power arm) but it’s the next best thing.

 

[Boswell]

That is one beautiful vise and PowerArm. puts any PanaVise to shame

 

[roadie33]

Not sure if this is the correct place for this. But I read it while in the shop while looking for machinery.

http://www.section179.org/section_179_leases/

Might help with the guys with their own small business with taxes next year.

 

[dave_r_1]

Getting time to do spring cleanup now, and I'm getting my equipment ready. I noticed last year that the tine engagement/disengagement mechanism was rubbing on the axle for the tines, which it wasn't supposed to do.

I'm just showing one side, everything had to be repeated on the other side.

Here's the damage:

The end of the arm was rubbing on that bearing that the "Danger" sticker is pointing at.

And here's the problem spot. That round hole with a bit of rust in it is supposed to have a 3/8" rod sticking straight out, that the arm rests against (you can see where the green paint has worn off the arm from doing this when the rod was still there). It's a poor design, because that rod gets a lot of torque applied to it because you put a bunch of force into that mechanism to lift the rear of the machine up to pull the tines out of the ground, and that pin is the limiter for that direction.


So naturally, I overdid it slightly, so this problem should not happen again.
Here are the braces I made to replace the pins:

I also made (using the lathe, so this also is actual "machining" content!) those two round spacers/washers, because the bushing in the picture is slightly too short (one of the links of the lifting mechanism pivots on that bushing, and the bolt holding it in place and the end of the bushing wore down a bit from the link moving the bushing a little in all directions instead of just pivoting on it.

And here's the brace welded in place. And you can just see that spacer I made under the head of the philips screw in the picture.

 

[FOMOGO]

Nice fix. I've never seen drag slicks on a rototiller before, or are those some kind of trailing wheel? Mike

 

[dave_r_1]

It's an aerator, not a rototiller. The rear wheels are primarily for transport and setting tine depth. No treads are needed for traction as when the tines are dropped in the ground, they provide awesome traction. The wheels might have had some small amount of treads originally that has worn away over the years.