2018 POTD Thread Archive

Replaced the battery in my iPhone 5S. Only 2 moments of panic, and 1 moment of stupidity.

Panic:
1. Prying the screen off initially with the suction cup, didn't control my strength well enough, and pulled the screen up too far, pulling out the connector for the home button/fingerprint sensor. However, once reassembled and powered up, it works fine.
2. After reassembling it, it wouldn't power up on it's own, and just displayed the low battery icon on the screen for about 15 minutes or so. Finally plugged it onto a wall-wart (they have the highest power output) for about 15 minutes, then it did power up. Evidently, the battery was completely out of power...

Stupidity:
There's a small cover over the connectors to the display, with 4 screws. The video I was following along with did the "Remove these 4 screws. Make sure you put the screws back in their corresponding holes". Naturally, I stopped the video after the first sentence, removed all the screws and put them together, unordered, hit play and then heard the second sentence...doh. I had broken my "rule" of watching the whole video for doing something, prior to doing it, so I know what to expect to do and to catch dumb things in videos like this. Anyway, found a site that described the 4 screws (2 1.7mm long screws, a 1.4mm screw and a 1.3mm screw) and which hole they belong in, then got out a magnifying glass to figure out which goes where.

Anyway, it's all back together and working. The old battery lasted about 4 1/2 years...
 
dave_r_1 said:
Replaced the battery in my iPhone 5S. Only 2 moments of panic, and 1 moment of stupidity.

Panic:
1. Prying the screen off initially with the suction cup, didn't control my strength well enough, and pulled the screen up too far, pulling out the connector for the home button/fingerprint sensor. However, once reassembled and powered up, it works fine.
2. After reassembling it, it wouldn't power up on it's own, and just displayed the low battery icon on the screen for about 15 minutes or so. Finally plugged it onto a wall-wart (they have the highest power output) for about 15 minutes, then it did power up. Evidently, the battery was completely out of power...

Stupidity:
There's a small cover over the connectors to the display, with 4 screws. The video I was following along with did the "Remove these 4 screws. Make sure you put the screws back in their corresponding holes". Naturally, I stopped the video after the first sentence, removed all the screws and put them together, unordered, hit play and then heard the second sentence...doh. I had broken my "rule" of watching the whole video for doing something, prior to doing it, so I know what to expect to do and to catch dumb things in videos like this. Anyway, found a site that described the 4 screws (2 1.7mm long screws, a 1.4mm screw and a 1.3mm screw) and which hole they belong in, then got out a magnifying glass to figure out which goes where.

Anyway, it's all back together and working. The old battery lasted about 4 1/2 years...
Click to expand...

I did that a few years ago. The second source battery I got (off Amazon) didn't seem to be as good as the original, but the only real hard part about the swap is handling those case screws that you can't see without a Scanning Electron Microscope without losing them. I dropped one of the internal screws that's a bit bigger and it was never to be seen again.
 
HBilly1022 said:
Bought a new snow plow for the tractor but found it didn't work well on my undulating driveway because it was a fixed mount. I was constantly fighting to keep the blade at just the right height. Too high and there would be a bunch of snow left behind. Too low and the front tractor tires would lift and my steering would be lost and the tractor would shoot sideways. Not a good thing when there is a steep, long drop on the low side of the driveway. So I decided to try and make a floating system. Welded tabs on the bottom of the plow mount and the top for a chain connection. Then used a second SSQA mounting plate and welded some tabs to it at the bottom and a chain to the top.

First I had to find some steel buried under 2 1/2' of snow.

Then make the bottom tabs and weld them to the plow SSQA.

I didn't get pics of the rest of the process but here is the almost finished product.

Just for scale, the snow blower is 29" tall to the top cross plate.
Click to expand...

Perhaps I am too inquisitive. Please let me know how it works out.
 
silverhawk said:
Perhaps I am too inquisitive. Please let me know how it works out.
Click to expand...

For my application it is waaaaaaaaay better. I can now set the plow down and the plow will follow the road contours on it's own. I still have to make adjustments occasionally but only where there are abrupt grade changes. For most of the driveway it is now set and forget it.

I think the original plow configuration would be fine for relatively flat surfaces, like parking lots etc. just not for my driveway.
 
A couple weeks ago I was policing my driveway and had to move my Honda Rancher ATV. It had been sitting for many months. When I tried to start it, it cranked a long time then backfired very loud. I tried a few more times and it finally started and would idle. But, if I put it in gear, it died.

I eventually got it to go in gear, moved it and turned it off. A while later I started it again and it idled for about 3 minutes, then died and wouldn't restart. I went on to other projects. A couple days later I tried to start it again, but it wouldn't.

I'm not a very good motor mechanic. But, if nothing else, I have persistence and determination. Old grease monkeys have always told me it is either spark or fuel. But, that was a time long ago before magic black boxes. I guessed it was fuel, but checked the spark anyway. Spark was good after I replaced the spark plug I broke while trying to remove it. But, it still didn't start.

I removed and opened up the fuel pump to check the filter, because that's where it is. It was pretty bad, and the inside of the fuel pump was pretty grotty. I gave the fuel pump a good overhaul and replaced the filter with an upgrade. It still wouldn't start. No back patting for me.

I checked for fuel flow and primed the pump with some gas. It started and ran ok for a few seconds. Fuel pump is working. But, fuel wasn't getting there from the gas tank. I removed it and inspected the fuel petcock. It was screwed beyond repair. I ordered one and replaced it a week later when it got here. While I was at it, I rinsed out the gas tank so it's all clean.

When the new petcock was installed, I filled the tank with fresh treated gas and got ready to pat myself on the back yet again for a job well done. Except, it still wouldn't start. It would sputter a little if I squirted gas in air intake of the throttle body. I took some more stuff off that was in the way and checked to see if fuel was getting to the throttle body. I broke the plastic fuel line connection trying to remove the fuel line. Those little green fuel line clips they use are impossible. I had to order that part which took a few more days. It also holds the fuel injector in place.

Meanwhile, I removed the fuel injector and cleaned and checked it. I made a gizmo with a valve stem, battery, jumper wires, and a can of carburetor cleaner that I saw on the uTubes. I squirted cleaner through the injector while opening and closing it with power from the battery. It is nice and clean and works fine. In the process of cleaning the fuel injector I discovered that they are activated by electricity. It dawned on my that the fuel injector might not be getting the signal to squirt.

The connector for the gas line came in and I replaced it and got my arm bent around to my back, ready to pat when started. It didn't. I'm going to pull a muscle before I ever get it started.

I referred to the shop service manual and ran a 5-part test with a multi-meter, checking continuity, ohms, and voltage. Parts 1 through 4 were nominal. everything is getting juice as it should and there are no shorts in wires. Test 5 indicated the PGM Fuel Injector modulel was on the fritz. The Honda shop wanted $100 more dollars than on-line OEM suppliers. They only price matched to $40 more, so I ordered it.

I was reluctant to order the module ($150) because I've purchased several batteries only to find out it was the starter. I got some confirmation online that the original backfire was a clue. Modules sometimes cause that when they feel like failing. The service manager at the Honda dealer agrees that a new module is the logical next best step.

The module is going to be a bugger to replace. It is in a tight space under several thick stiff wire bundles and components.
What's curious to me is that I know the module was working after I overhauled the fuel pump. It started and ran fine while it had gas. It should have again once I repaired the petcock, but it didn't. What on earth did I do to the module while replacing the fuel petcock on the fuel tank?

The module should arrive next week. My expectations are low that will fix it. I fully expect to work my way all the way through the engine and finally find the culprit somewhere in the differential.
 
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Welcome to the 21st century. Electronics have done amazing things for us but Im not convinced we need high tech on equipment thats going to take me miles into the back country. I have a 92 Honda ATV thats still running strong with a simple carb. A couple of years ago I was concerned it was getting old and going to let me down so I bought a new Honda with fuel injection, water cooling, electronic display, etc. Its worked flawlessly, telling me when it needs oil changes, how far Im going to have to walk back out if it quits, what gear Im in, rides and handles way beter so now the dog and I go faster and will get hurt worse when we hit something. But when it quits 20 miles back in the bush where am I going to find that fuel injection module. The old one had a kick start for backup, the recoil on this one was an option.
The outboard I have has fuel injection as well. Its incredible on fuel but again, when it quits way up or worse down the river where do you even start to look for the problem.
I went simple on the snow mobile, air cooled and carb's but you can't even see the carburetors. Took 3 hours in the shop to change a broken choke cable.
We're becoming a send it to the shop society.
My hat's off to you Franko for tearing into it.

Greg
 
Greg, I hear you. Last year my 1956 50hp Mariner quit on me. It would run fine at low speed but at hjigh speed was definitely missing on one cylinder. I finally narrowed it down to a crack in the #4 cylinder wall which allowed water in during high rpm, yet to be verified.

Since my main goal is getting out fishing, I decided to buy a new outboard. The 50 hp four stroke that I bought runs fine and is economical but it weighs in at almost a hundred pounds more and it is twice the size of my old Mariner When you pull the cowl, it is packed inside right out to the 3edge of the envelope. The computer controlled fuel injection is great but if you have a problem with it, it has to go into the dealer to run diagnostics on it.

My only hopeis that, considering the low amount of run time I put on the engine, I will go before it decides to quit.
 
I have the 60 hp Mercury R J. I've had outboards and inboards all my life in salt and fresh water, but can't believe how little fuel this thing burns, and how quiet it is.

Greg
 
I like the fuel injection on my Honda Rancher. All the others I've owned (and thumper dirt bikes) required several minutes of warm up before they'd go. You can just start it like a car and move it across the yard without waiting 5 minutes and tinkering with the choak until it warm up.

I have a service manual for this ATV. It shows and explains how to diagnose and fix anything on it. There are some special tools, but mostly a multi-meter and a basic set of tools is about all you need. No computer required, though I'm sure the dealer has one.

This is the second Rancher I've owned. The first was 4-wheel drive and had electronic shift. 4-wheel was kinda neat, but not really necessary for my purposes. I hated the electronic shift. I have a Warn wench on this one that should get me out of any trouble that I'd need 4-wheel for.
 
Greg, quiet and economical, I'll give you that. I have run Mercury's for thirty-five years and am generally happy with their performance.
 
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