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2018 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter 2volts
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,634
POTD was making a punch and die for knocking out 0.460” disks. The disks are a part of another project, but first things first. I use drill rod or O-1 for punches and dies. These would be used in my Roper Whitney #218 press and are 1.25” diameter for the die and 0.5” shank for the punch. First the die.
Started with a round that was slightly over 1.25”, faced and turned the OD to 1.25”. The die has a clearance countersunk hole in the bottom as the body is 5/8” thick, but the actually shearing surface is only about 0.200” thick. Center drilled, drilled a starter hole and finished with a ¾” drill bit. I set the drill bit in a ½” die and marked the depth on the drill bit with a paint marker. I didn’t show the operation, but also cut a relief groove in the middle for number punching later.
Put a little chamfer on the outside and inside of the die, then cut off on the band saw.
Flipped the O-1 and faced the band sawed side. Center drilled and drilled a through hole short of 0.460”. Faced the die to final thickness after the through hole was in.
Next was putting a chamfer on the outside top surface of the die. Then bored the hole to size. The punch diameter sets the size of the hole/plug, so that would be 0.460” to make 0.460" disks. For steel, die/punch clearance should be 20% of the material thickness. So for 0.040” material, the clearance would be 0.008” (0.040” times 20%). The punch and die would actually be used on fiber material for this project, but I chose to make the die for 0.036” steel, so bored the hole to 0.467”.
Next, put the die on a V-block and number punched a “460” on the relieved surface. Not a necessary step, but it makes for easy identification of the die.
The punch was made from a length of ½” drill rod. That was cut on the band saw. The top of the punch goes into a receiver on the punch press which has a screw to keep the punch from rotating. Roper Whitney typically mills an angled cut on non-round punches and does a tapered cut on round ones (they’ll do an angled pass on the mill also). I set the compound angle to match a stock punch by running an indicator along the taper and adjusted the compound rest angle until the needle didn’t move. Mounted the punch in a collet and turned the taper.
Flipped the blank to the working end and faced. Then turned the surface to 0.460” OD. The punch only goes through the die by about 0.200”, so turned the 0.460” diameter along ~3/4” of the surface. Then faced the punch leaving a “prick” at the middle. The prick is left so the punch more easily centers up on a center punched hole.
The punch was pulled from the lathe and set on a V-block. Then a “460” was punched on the surface.
Next was heat treating. I flame hardened the punch and die using an oxyacetylene torch. I have a Thermolyne 2025 electric furnace that can reach the 1500 F required for hardening, but it takes about 30 minutes to heat up. The torch gets them red hot in less than a minute. My oxyacetylene torch tanks are pretty small, noticed my acetylene tank went from 100 psi to 80 after this job. I recall paying about $90 the last time the tank was filled. So, next time I’ll sit and listen to the radio as the electric furnace heats up. It draws less than 2000W, or about $0.20 an hour which is a lot cheaper than the gas I used.
Both punch and die were tempered to 460 F in the electric furnace. I loop a piece of wire on them so they’re easy to grab out of the furnace and dump in the oil bath.
The punch and die work great. Anyone who’s seen some of my posts will correctly guess I’m working on another Erector set part. In this case, I’m stamping out disks from a fiber material to be used on the commutator of Erector set part# P58 motors. There’s a picture of one with a good commutator and one that was cooked by lots of use or a kid who ran the motor at a higher than the 15V max recommended by the factory.
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
Started with a round that was slightly over 1.25”, faced and turned the OD to 1.25”. The die has a clearance countersunk hole in the bottom as the body is 5/8” thick, but the actually shearing surface is only about 0.200” thick. Center drilled, drilled a starter hole and finished with a ¾” drill bit. I set the drill bit in a ½” die and marked the depth on the drill bit with a paint marker. I didn’t show the operation, but also cut a relief groove in the middle for number punching later.
Put a little chamfer on the outside and inside of the die, then cut off on the band saw.
Flipped the O-1 and faced the band sawed side. Center drilled and drilled a through hole short of 0.460”. Faced the die to final thickness after the through hole was in.
Next was putting a chamfer on the outside top surface of the die. Then bored the hole to size. The punch diameter sets the size of the hole/plug, so that would be 0.460” to make 0.460" disks. For steel, die/punch clearance should be 20% of the material thickness. So for 0.040” material, the clearance would be 0.008” (0.040” times 20%). The punch and die would actually be used on fiber material for this project, but I chose to make the die for 0.036” steel, so bored the hole to 0.467”.
Next, put the die on a V-block and number punched a “460” on the relieved surface. Not a necessary step, but it makes for easy identification of the die.
The punch was made from a length of ½” drill rod. That was cut on the band saw. The top of the punch goes into a receiver on the punch press which has a screw to keep the punch from rotating. Roper Whitney typically mills an angled cut on non-round punches and does a tapered cut on round ones (they’ll do an angled pass on the mill also). I set the compound angle to match a stock punch by running an indicator along the taper and adjusted the compound rest angle until the needle didn’t move. Mounted the punch in a collet and turned the taper.
Flipped the blank to the working end and faced. Then turned the surface to 0.460” OD. The punch only goes through the die by about 0.200”, so turned the 0.460” diameter along ~3/4” of the surface. Then faced the punch leaving a “prick” at the middle. The prick is left so the punch more easily centers up on a center punched hole.
The punch was pulled from the lathe and set on a V-block. Then a “460” was punched on the surface.
Next was heat treating. I flame hardened the punch and die using an oxyacetylene torch. I have a Thermolyne 2025 electric furnace that can reach the 1500 F required for hardening, but it takes about 30 minutes to heat up. The torch gets them red hot in less than a minute. My oxyacetylene torch tanks are pretty small, noticed my acetylene tank went from 100 psi to 80 after this job. I recall paying about $90 the last time the tank was filled. So, next time I’ll sit and listen to the radio as the electric furnace heats up. It draws less than 2000W, or about $0.20 an hour which is a lot cheaper than the gas I used.
Both punch and die were tempered to 460 F in the electric furnace. I loop a piece of wire on them so they’re easy to grab out of the furnace and dump in the oil bath.
The punch and die work great. Anyone who’s seen some of my posts will correctly guess I’m working on another Erector set part. In this case, I’m stamping out disks from a fiber material to be used on the commutator of Erector set part# P58 motors. There’s a picture of one with a good commutator and one that was cooked by lots of use or a kid who ran the motor at a higher than the 15V max recommended by the factory.
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2018
- Messages
- 672
I've been using propane for about 6 years now.had to buy tip for cutting torch special made for propane.15.00..same welding,brazing tips.works great for me..have saved a lot of money vs acetylene.20 pound cylinder lasts pretty good while.refill is close by.appx 14.00.works for me.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
Today i had very little free time but i plan it and used it very sparingly, started by removing the valve cover because it was leaking and the valves are noisy and surprise surprise, the valves have never been adjusted, and the government agency that had it before me did not change the oil regularly, not a big deal since is a Lada but the noisy timing chain that i adjusted couple weeks back was so bad it damaged the valve cover and looks like some one had welded it at the edge. Because of the caked dirty oil i decided to wash the valve cover before i do anything, so i started with mineral spirits in a pan but it wasn't cleaning it fast enough, so i gather all the air cleaners and other dirty covers in the engine bay and the valve cover and pressure wash them outside with a heavy duty engine degreaser, this took off the grime but might not been the smartest idea because by the time i was bring in them inside they had started to freeze in place.
After seeing how bad the inside of the engine is i wonder how bad the cooling system is, so i started looking at the radiator drain and see there is no drain plug in place i poke it with a screwdriver and then fluid started coming out so the radiator is plagued so couple of hose clamps and two screws the radiator come out, it must weight 40kg, like is full with mud which probably is, plus the core is rusted out in the lower parts, i plan on upgrading the radiator, and changing the walter pump but this is looking like a complete system rebuild.
After seeing how bad the inside of the engine is i wonder how bad the cooling system is, so i started looking at the radiator drain and see there is no drain plug in place i poke it with a screwdriver and then fluid started coming out so the radiator is plagued so couple of hose clamps and two screws the radiator come out, it must weight 40kg, like is full with mud which probably is, plus the core is rusted out in the lower parts, i plan on upgrading the radiator, and changing the walter pump but this is looking like a complete system rebuild.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2017
- Messages
- 1,191
I have been searching the shop for my 7/16 hex key for my 4 jaw chuck, but after 2 days of looking I decided to make one... I used 1045 steel, it's file hard....
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
I've know about 90% of its problems before i made the deal, only the badly done repairs come unexpected, that said i'm still under buget but when is all fix and done on the road it will cost me same as a Niva in poor to average condition.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,634
POTD was making a modified tip for the end of the squeeze bottle oiler for the ball oilers on my Grizzly lathe. The lathe came with an oiler, but frankly it doesn’t generate much pressure to force oil into the galleys. You push the ball out of the way with the tip and drizzle in what you can and hope gravity does the rest. My idea was to change the tip so it could push the ball out of the way and seal off against the brass surface of the ball oiler detail. The tip of the oil bottle has an M4x0.70 thread, so the new tip would be screwed on into place.
My Grizzly ball oilers have a brass insert about 0.250” in diameter with a 0.125” hole. I pushed down on the ball with the depth gauge portion of a Vernier caliper and was comfortable with a 0.020” deep press of the ball. Too shallow and the oil is restricted, too far and the ball might stick and/or the surface of the tip won’t seal against the brass insert.
My idea was to make the tip a shade under ¼” diameter with a “nose” on the end around 0.115” diameter and a #50 drilled hole up the middle. The nub on the tip would be 0.020” tall. After the lathe work was done, I’d go to the mill and cut away half (from the side) of the protruding tip. In use, the tip would push the ball down a max of 0.020” and a squeeze of the bottle would flow the oil through the #50 hole past the ball. The tip would more or less seal against the brass insert as long as it was held flat to the insert.
I started with a piece of 5/16” diameter 303 or 304 stainless. Faced the end, then cut the “nub” on the end with a parting tool to 0.115” diameter. Moved the parting tool down the work and cut the diameter to around 0.240” or a little smaller than the diameter of the brass insert. This dimension needs to be smaller than the diameter of the brass insert or the tip would bottom out on the surface around the insert if the brass was sub-flush. Then the protruding tip wouldn’t push the ball down and I wouldn’t get a decent seal.
Next was center drilling and drilling a #50 hole where the oil would squeeze out. I chamfered the 5/16” to 0.240” area for appearance, not function.
I used my Clausing lathe for this job. No DRO on this lathe so “old school” dial indicator work to face the “nub” on the end to 0.020” long. Put the parting tool at the base, set the magnet-backed indicator on the bed with the probe against the carriage. Adjusted to 0.000”, then moved the carriage toward the tail stock by 0.020” and parted.
Nothing critical on the overall length of the screw-on nozzle, set the location for parting with a depth scale.
Flipped the part and faced and center drilled the back side. Then drilled with the appropriate tap drill and tapped the M4 thread. Lastly, put a little chamfer on the back edge. Not functional, but relieves the sharp edge.
The tip was mounted in a collet/collet block and set on the mill. Then milled away half of the tip from the side. The idea is the little “C” shaped end of the tip will push the ball out of the way, then the surface outside of the “C” seals against the ball oiler brass insert, the cut away area of the tip is the passage point for the oil to get past the ball and into the galley.
It does work pretty well. In retrospect I’d make a few changes. First, I’d put a knurl on the outside of the new tip so it’s easier to screw on/off. Secondly, I’d be a little more careful screwing the cap on the oil bottle . . . Yup, busted the black plastic cap on the oil bottle, so all the work is for naught . . . At least I got to play in the shop . . .
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
My Grizzly ball oilers have a brass insert about 0.250” in diameter with a 0.125” hole. I pushed down on the ball with the depth gauge portion of a Vernier caliper and was comfortable with a 0.020” deep press of the ball. Too shallow and the oil is restricted, too far and the ball might stick and/or the surface of the tip won’t seal against the brass insert.
My idea was to make the tip a shade under ¼” diameter with a “nose” on the end around 0.115” diameter and a #50 drilled hole up the middle. The nub on the tip would be 0.020” tall. After the lathe work was done, I’d go to the mill and cut away half (from the side) of the protruding tip. In use, the tip would push the ball down a max of 0.020” and a squeeze of the bottle would flow the oil through the #50 hole past the ball. The tip would more or less seal against the brass insert as long as it was held flat to the insert.
I started with a piece of 5/16” diameter 303 or 304 stainless. Faced the end, then cut the “nub” on the end with a parting tool to 0.115” diameter. Moved the parting tool down the work and cut the diameter to around 0.240” or a little smaller than the diameter of the brass insert. This dimension needs to be smaller than the diameter of the brass insert or the tip would bottom out on the surface around the insert if the brass was sub-flush. Then the protruding tip wouldn’t push the ball down and I wouldn’t get a decent seal.
Next was center drilling and drilling a #50 hole where the oil would squeeze out. I chamfered the 5/16” to 0.240” area for appearance, not function.
I used my Clausing lathe for this job. No DRO on this lathe so “old school” dial indicator work to face the “nub” on the end to 0.020” long. Put the parting tool at the base, set the magnet-backed indicator on the bed with the probe against the carriage. Adjusted to 0.000”, then moved the carriage toward the tail stock by 0.020” and parted.
Nothing critical on the overall length of the screw-on nozzle, set the location for parting with a depth scale.
Flipped the part and faced and center drilled the back side. Then drilled with the appropriate tap drill and tapped the M4 thread. Lastly, put a little chamfer on the back edge. Not functional, but relieves the sharp edge.
The tip was mounted in a collet/collet block and set on the mill. Then milled away half of the tip from the side. The idea is the little “C” shaped end of the tip will push the ball out of the way, then the surface outside of the “C” seals against the ball oiler brass insert, the cut away area of the tip is the passage point for the oil to get past the ball and into the galley.
It does work pretty well. In retrospect I’d make a few changes. First, I’d put a knurl on the outside of the new tip so it’s easier to screw on/off. Secondly, I’d be a little more careful screwing the cap on the oil bottle . . . Yup, busted the black plastic cap on the oil bottle, so all the work is for naught . . . At least I got to play in the shop . . .
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
Of course, now you will find your hex key, probably right where you decide to store your new one in that "that's where this belongs" spot...
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 12,859
We made 400 lbs of glob today . 5 extruders were left on and have been pumping polymer since this afternoon . Guess who gets to cut the 5 dies and all the heater cords out of the " glob creatures " created . Someone will most likely " be let go " for this . 