2017 - The Original "What Did You Buy Today?" Mega Thread

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I thought about an R8 Weldon as well but from the other thread on this topic, looks like Paco, Mark and others are using a 3/4" R8 collet with success. I am going to give the 3/4" R8 collet a try as well. The R8 Weldon would use up some valuable head room so if the collet works, that is a plus from my perspective.
 
Alan H said:
I thought about an R8 Weldon as well but from the other thread on this topic, looks like Paco, Mark and others are using a 3/4" R8 collet with success. I am going to give the 3/4" R8 collet a try as well. The R8 Weldon would use up some valuable head room so if the collet works, that is a plus from my perspective.
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Good idea. I do have a R8 to 3/4" adapter also. I bought 2 of them years ago cause I cut one up to use for something, figured it might come in handy one day. I suppose this would be perfect for it as I haven't had a need to use it for anything else yet. I figure the adapter would add even more overhang but if it works that'll save me $60 bucks.

If & when you try it please post some feedback.
 
Got me a new Italian made hammer for tappy tappy on parts. ;)

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Also got a Starrett indicator points set. Damn these things are pricey but my patience rewarded me again.

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Hey guys. Picked up a manual hole punch for my little fab shop. Needs punches/dies. Looks a lot like a Baileigh model hp160. Up here in Canada, Busy Bee also sells something similar but the punches/dies are a bit different. I could use advice on where to source a set. Also, these look fairly easy to make, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on steel type to use. Is 1045 O.K.? Heard 4140 might be
right. Appreciate any input. Jon.dies1.jpg dies1.jpg dies2.jpg holepunch.jpg
 
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Cool looking unit. How thick can it go? I reckon 4140 is better, more hardenability and better life.
cheers Alby.
 
Thats excellent, now you can make odd shaped dies and punches. This is a very handy unit to have.
Even broaching if your careful. It is similar in principle to an arbor press.
cheers Alby
 
Alan H said:
Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.
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Alan, I see you bought the same knurl tool I did. I picked up some additional knurling wheels, and now have versions at 12, 20 and 21 pitch. I did a spreadsheet as a quick reference on the proper knurling diameter for those pitches which I thought I'd share here - maybe it will be useful to someone. Attached.
 

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Joncooey said:
Hey guys. Picked up a manual hole punch for my little fab shop. Needs punches/dies. Looks a lot like a Baileigh model hp160. Up here in Canada, Busy Bee also sells something similar but the punches/dies are a bit different. I could use advice on where to source a set. Also, these look fairly easy to make, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on steel type to use. Is 1045 O.K.? Heard 4140 might be
right. Appreciate any input. Jon.View attachment 232544 View attachment 232544 View attachment 232546 View attachment 232545
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Depends on what material you're going to punch. I've made a number of punches/dies for my Roper Whitney #218 press. For steel, I go with O-1 drill rod. Punch to die clearance for plain steel is 20% of material thickness, 25% for stainless. If you were punching 0.040" plain carbon steel stock, the punch/die clearance should be 0.040" x 20% or 0.008" (for example)

There's a POTD post in that string from me detailing how I made some O-1 punches/dies for a project. Flame hardened the steel with a torch, quenched in motor oil. Then tempered on a hot plate. I've done over 1000 hits using 0.036" 304 stainless with those punches/dies and they're still going strong.

I've made punches/dies for a fiber board material out of 4140 and stainless steel because the diameters were handy. Probably plain carbon would have worked for the fiber material.

Bruce
 
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