2016 POTD Thread Archive

On Monday, I took the day to work in the shop on my milling machine repairs. I needed to make a new shaft and mill some features in a new bronze flanged bushing to complete the saddle repair.

Here's a couple of pics of the old shaft and bushing...

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The bushing is wallowed out of round and the shaft is badly pitted. I found a replacement bushing on Ebay the just needed to be shortened and a couple of oiling grooves added.

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I started with HSS on hot rolled for the shaft ....

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Then I switched to carbide, as I had a lot of material to remove. What a difference... !!!

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Here's the completed shaft and bushing, ready for installation...

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Here's the repair completed...

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Brian :)

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Nice job on that. Do you have a second mill to do some of those operations or was it all done on the lathe? Mike
 
Well I finished the small angle gage spotting tool, and used a hacksaw to take out the corners of my Atlas compound dovetails only to find that even with a really thin scraper blade it's close to impossible to get in there, kind of a bummer, gonna have to either retool or forget about scraping those Itty bitty dovetails. I've been looking all around for stuff to scrape, running out of stuff so i think I'm gonna make a small square out of the left over cast iron bar I have from speedy metals, which gets pretty stable if you do a heat soak in the oven on clean cycle
 
Nice job on that. Do you have a second mill to do some of those operations or was it all done on the lathe? Mike

Hello Mike... Thanks... :)

Yes, I have another mill. It's an Italian mill that is a combination of a regular knee mill with a horizontal spindle.

Brian :)
 
Got my lathe setup on the new stand. Leveled it, which was pretty easy, then checked for twist. With this stand I was able to adjust the leveling feet to take out the slight twist in the bed. This turned out to be very easy with the new stand whereas I was never able to when working with the factory stand, I think the factory stand was just too flexible.

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I got the tool box installed. This turned out to be a bi#ch to do working by myself. I ended up putting the first war wound on the paint job, not a virgin anymore. LOL

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I also machined the mount plate for the Aloris QCTP. No bozo mistakes so all went well.

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Dan, the stand turned out freakin' AWESOME!!! I have already started to gather some material so I can build one once I get caught up.

I am also envious of how much room you have between your equipment. Mine is nearly stacked on top of one anther and I am still out of room.

Looks great and thanks for sharing.

Mike.
 
Thanks a lot Mike. Now that it's done I have some changes I would make. I'll update the cad and send you revised prints. Nothing to major but it would make the shelves taller which would add to their usability. I still want to do some kind of door, something with a rolled edge similar to the factory stand. That open space is already filling up, it was temporary for the engine hoist access.
 
FIXED MY NUTS!

my nuts were falling apart..Roland makes great amps but their nuts seam to just rot away...

sure I could have bought replacement for SEVEN BUCKS EACH!..hellll no....not this guy.

like many things, the RCworld has lots of metric threaded parts..

found some Aluminum wheel nuts the right thread, just needed to drill out the end to the right size since they were cover/nuts

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Degreased, wire wheeled, degreased again my rear axle housing yesterday and painted it with POR 15 today. Got my final package of gaskets, brake line, nuts and bender a few days ago. Won't be until Friday that I start assembling. Gay-raj in upper 40's today, back to the frame work on the truck soon.

BTW, oven cleaner (brand name and heavy duty type) works really great as a de-greaser for really dirty parts. Cover the parts in oven cleaner, let sit out in the sun or heat with a heat gun, and clean off with a pressure washer (wear PPE). Repeat as necessary until the part is clean. I have cleaned many parts from untouched 1930s cars this way, and the results are really surprising.

For small parts, I use a vibrating tumbler*. The tumbler is stocked with green diamond abrasive. I then add a small amount of water. I coat all parts with oven cleaner, place them in the tub, and let it run for 24 hrs. They come out pretty much completely free of gunk.

I mention this because it seems like a little known idea to my fellow restorers. Of course, that could be the circles I run in...

Cheers,
Tom

*the link is an example product. I have no idea where I got mine. I also have no financial interest in the company to which I linked. No dangling whatever on that sentence!

Which reminds me of that babe that came into my office last week. She was every bit gorgeous, all six feet of her. And there was no mistaking the look on her face; it said trouble with a capital T. Her hair was flaxen, whatever the hell that means, and her complexion was complicated. She almost had that kind of face that both repels and draws you in. But really, it wasn't a resting ***** face, it was a face that had had enough. Besides, who can fault the suffers of RBS. It's genetic, like a detached earlobe, a propensity to herniate, or dying a fiery death.

I knew, without knowing, like those known unknowns, that I would take her case. Mostly because she led with a dangling participle.

These are the tales of Drex Gherman, the private eye that can't let go of his sixth grade english lessons.
 
So I got some andirons from a friend to repair. The broken parts are cast iron. I was going to weld them back together with some nickel 99 rods. As I prepped them I noticed hair line cracks all through them. I figured they would just break again in a new spot. I decided to just make some new ones for him. I ordered a 3/4 x 3/4 piece of 1018 off the interweb and got to it.
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I used a torch to heat it up and make the bends.
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Making some progress.
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All done and ready for the fire place.
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