2015 POTD Thread Archive

Nice job on the fitting. I doubt the type of solder will make much difference in that application. Being a Ford guy you have piqued my interest. What's under the valve covers? Small block Stroker? I'm in the process of converting several of my older cars to e.f.i., and it does take a little thinking, and engineering to get all that data where it needs to go. Really nice when it works though. No hard cold starting, or flooding, along with more power and better mileage.
I say the same thing but most people just roll their eyes at me. I don't miss pre ECM cars. I remember the first thing I was thought when learning to work on cars "It ether Fuel, Air, or Fire & you need to find out which one." This was just to get started looking for the problem. Then you had to pull parts to measure them. Now I just unlock my phone open a app & see which system to look at. Most measuring I can do without ever removing the part. Most fixes never cost me a dime or over 10 minutes of work.
 
Something in the back of my mind prompts me to ask you what coolant are you using and have you checked that the solder you have used on the union is compatible with it .

As of yet, no coolant in the car. The solder I used is standard lead free plumbing solder that is 90% tin. I doubt there would be any issues. The heater core is the original soldered brass one which I would expect used old fashioned lead solder.
 
Nice job on the fitting. I doubt the type of solder will make much difference in that application. Being a Ford guy you have piqued my interest. What's under the valve covers? Small block Stroker? I'm in the process of converting several of my older cars to e.f.i., and it does take a little thinking, and engineering to get all that data where it needs to go. Really nice when it works though. No hard cold starting, or flooding, along with more power and better mileage.

The car is a 79 Mustang Fox body coupe. I'm building it into a just barely street legal autocross racer. The engine is a 68 Mustang 4bbl 302. I built the engine myself back in my days of auto mechanics working in an engine machine shop. It's bore .040 with forged flat top pistons for 10:1 compression, heads are the 4V ones with 53cc chambers, ported out with 351W valves and roller rockers on a 351W hydraulic cam with big lift and duration. I'm running a T5 behind it with aluminum flywheel and Spec Stage 2 clutch.

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Yesterday I formed the right side bracket for the leveling casters on the lathe stand I'm building. I had to shorten one leg of the 6' x 6' x 3/8" angle about an inch. My plasma cutter was not up to that thick material. It took 2-3 passes on each side, removing the guide bar each pass so I could grind off the dross. When I finally separated the piece, the cut was not the smooth plasma cut I'm used to, but it was pretty square and ground down pretty well. It is on the bottom so no one but me will ever see it.

Then I marked the radius on the corners and clipped off the corner with a cutting disk on a hand grinder. The radius was then finished with a flap wheel on the bench grinder.

It looks like there is a flat spot in this photo, but there isn't. It's reflections.

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I made the stationary wheels for the other end a couple days ago.

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Quote: The car is a 79 Mustang Fox body coupe. I'm building it into a just barely street legal autocross racer. The engine is a 68 Mustang 4bbl 302. I built the engine myself back in my days of auto mechanics working in an engine machine shop. It's bore .040 with forged flat top pistons for 10:1 compression, heads are the 4V ones with 53cc chambers, ported out with 351W valves and roller rockers on a 351W hydraulic cam with big lift and duration. I'm running a T5 behind it with aluminum flywheel and Spec Stage 2 clutch.

That should be a nice combo, and a pretty economical build. I'm building one based on the same yr block, 347 stroker, AFR 185 heads, 11.5 cr, and e.f.i., backed by a TKO 600 going in my 66 fast back. Should be tickling 500 hp. Mike 0628129-R1-018-7A.jpg
 
Firestopper what year is that behind it. I had an original 1965, at one point, Redid it from drums to disk, and put in newer front and rear axels, Rebuilt the original 6 cyl engine. Wound up selling it as I was having to drive a long way to work and back and it was killing me, It was made for off road and beat me to death on the road. Now I wish I had it back.
 
Got a new used grinder and needed a place to put it, also had a vice that I needed to do something with, So a built me a stand, then built an adapter to put the grinder on so that I could remove it and put the small vice on when I wanted to use that. Still have to make the adapters for the vice and another grinder. Also need to make a guides for the Grinder where I can adjust and set them.
20150516_171912.jpg 20150516_171932.jpg 20150516_172015.jpgNot much but it will do for me, Also put rear wheels so that I could tip it up and move it easy. Wife likes purple, and had a bunch of extra so why not.
 
Firestopper what year is that behind it. I had an original 1965, at one point, Redid it from drums to disk, and put in newer front and rear axels, Rebuilt the original 6 cyl engine. Wound up selling it as I was having to drive a long way to work and back and it was killing me, It was made for off road and beat me to death on the road. Now I wish I had it back.

kvt,
The 40 is 02/82, it's my daily driver. They do ride rough, but I seem to gravitate to it when I need to go to work and run errands. I'm in the process of locating a HZT Toyota diesel for it. I purchased a NIB five speed for the diesel conversion. It came stock with front disc brakes, P/S, 19 gallon fuel tank mounted to the frame rails (not under passengers seat) and built in rear heater (centre console) freeing up rear floor space.
 
Nice grinder stand, I like the color too.
 
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