2015 POTD Thread Archive

I am embarassed to say this but I have had a 3-jaw chuck and backing plate blank sitting on my bench for the past 9+ months now and no time to work on it. I have a 8" Vertex Rotary Table that I acquired about 8 or so years ago. I haven't used it much due to what a pain it was to use the mill feature on my previous 3-in-1 machine. However, I decided to finally set it up with a 3-jaw chuck and start using the rotary table a bit more. Last summer I scored an inexpensive 3-jaw from ebay and a blank backing plate to mount the chuck onto my rotary table. It has been sitting on my work bench ever since because I have not had time to machine the adapter plate.

Well, I have a set of handlebar mounts to machine for a customer's bike and I could really use that 3-jaw to cut the radius on the mill. I figured it was time to get the adapter place machined so I could use it for this project and it would be completed and readily available whenever I need it in the future.

I set up the adapter plate in the 4-jaw and dialed it in. I also covered the bed, carriage and as much of the lathe as possible as I hate machining cast iron.
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I next faced the backing plate and cut the OD to size. It originally measure 8.3" and I needed to take it down to 8" exactly to match the rotary table diameter.
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Once I got it trued and turned down, I flipped it around in the 4-jaw to machine the step to match the back side of the 3-jaw chuck.
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Here is the little 6" 3-jaw that will be used on my 8" rotary table.
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Hopefully tonight I can complete the step and then move over to the mill and drill the bolt holes for mounting the chuck to the backing plate and the backing plate to the RT.

Mike.
 
Quick and simple project: cord holder for smart phone.

My phone charging cord always seems to fall behind the nightstand. I decided to make a weighed holder to eliminate this problem.
I started with a 2" aluminum round and turned it pretty.

15%2B-%2B2.jpg

On the bottom I machined a small pocket about 0.7" diameter and I cut a groove along the diameter. I center drilled and tapped it for a 10-32 socket cap screw.
You can see the path of the cord.

15%2B-%2B1.jpg

Holds it snugly, but easy to remove if you need to. Would also look really great in stainless if you are so inclined
Enjoy.
R
 
Today for the first time since my surgery I got something made in the shop
20150505_142416.jpg 20150505_142122.jpg 20150505_144004.jpg
I built a propane burner for the forge I am getting ready to build. I may also be used in a furnace for casting if I build one. Short some pluming to get it hooked up and tuned, so no cool flame photos yet. Not an original idea. and it should be straight forward enough for me not to bore you with details. I will add the orifice is a .025 mig contact tip.
I will add flam pics when I get it hooked up. also I may shoot some video of how it goes together and tuning it.
Mark
Mods. if you think this will help others if placed in casting section let me know or just copy it there, or however you feel.
 
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R,
you need to run to the Patten office with this. Great Idea maybe make a base with a figurine, shape it like a pyramid. Or other clever gimmick.
Mark
 
Mike,
Nice to see the trailer done. Looks really great!! the ATP makes it pop, very nice touch.
Mark
 
Today for the first time since my surgery I got something made in the shop
View attachment 100832 View attachment 100833 View attachment 100834
I built a propane burner for the forge I am getting ready to build. I may also be used in a furnace for casting if I build one. Short some pluming to get it hooked up and tuned, so no cool flame photos yet. Not an original idea. and it should be straight forward enough for me not to bore you with details. I will add the orifice is a .025 mig contact tip.
I will add flam pics when I get it hooked up. also I may shoot some video of how it goes together and tuning it.
Mark
Mods. if you think this will help others if placed in casting section let me know or just copy it there, or however you feel.
A simple sliding tube cover /shield ( a bit like a Bunsen burner ) that can be slid over the air ports could allow you to adjust the flame heat if needs be .
 
Quick and simple project: cord holder for smart phone.

My phone charging cord always seems to fall behind the nightstand. I decided to make a weighed holder to eliminate this problem.
I started with a 2" aluminum round and turned it pretty.

On the bottom I machined a small pocket about 0.7" diameter and I cut a groove along the diameter. I center drilled and tapped it for a 10-32 socket cap screw.
You can see the path of the cord.

Holds it snugly, but easy to remove if you need to. Would also look really great in stainless if you are so inclined
Enjoy.
R

Brilliant idea. I may have to steel that one for my wife. I am tired of standing on my head to grab the stinkin' cord.

Mike,
Nice to see the trailer done. Looks really great!! the ATP makes it pop, very nice touch.
Mark

Thanks Mark. I agree, the ATP really finished it off nicely. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. I know it is overkill for just a trailer but I have been unhappy with the other little utility trailer of mine for a while and decided to build something I could be proud to tow. It just took me forever to find the time to build it and then once I started, I kept getting interrupted with other things. Overall I am glad it is done and can move on to other projects now.

Mike.
 
Circles,
Yes I have considered a choke for the burner, but the guy that I got the design from didn't use one. And his worked pretty good. the flare give some flame control. I may add one because I want to get it dialed in so as to have a good flame at different heats, using the regulator or a needle valve.
Mark
 
Have I mentioned just how much I dislike machining cast iron? What a mess, but I figured I may as well hurry and get this project completed rather than clean it up just to make the same mess again. Last night I quite work on customer work so I could complete the rotary table adapter plate and clean up my mess.

Here is the mess after the lathe work is completed and just prior to removing the backing plate from the 4-jaw chuck.
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Turning and facing processes completed and ready to drill the mounting holes. The step is .001" smaller than the backside of the chuck so it will self center onto the plate.
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Chuck test fit onto the plate to ensure self-centering. I got a little cocky here but I should have test fit it prior to removing it from the lathe. Had my measurements been off I could have been chucking it back up in the lathe to make a skim cut. Luckily everything fell together perfectly. Another reason I probably shouldn't work this late at night.
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Vise removed from mill table and the backing plate clamped down locating the center. I have it spaced off the table so I can drill through without hitting the table. Using my handy, dandy modified Noga/IndiCol DTI holder. Works awesome. You can also see the DRO that I have zero'd after locating center.
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Three chuck mounting holes drilled. The bolt hole circle function in the DRO flat ROCKS!!!
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I used a .375" end mill and countersunk for the socket head capscrews to sit just below flush.
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Next I flipped the adapter over and plugged the dimensions into the DRO for the four bolt hole pattern to match the slots in the rotary table.
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Four bolt pattern drilled and countersunk with a .625" end mill.
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Completed sitting on the rotary table.
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Now that my 3-jaw chuck is mounted on my rotary table I can move on to the actual paying job that I needed this for. Oh well, at least it is off my bench and crossed off my list of things to do and is readily available when I have the next job come in requiring the chuck and rotary table.

Mike.
 
Mike , I can only drool and buy a lottery ticket because of your engineering shop machinery , plus with my age & dodgy health I dare not even buy green bananas unless they are guaranteed to ripen to dark brown within 24 hours let alone order some decent machinery :grin:.

Thanks for posting and putting up the pictures .
 
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