2015 POTD Thread Archive

Today I played around in the shop doing some prep work for next weeks project. I'm going to be making some of the DoubleBoost tasks lights. I took a chunk of brass scrap & turned it into a go/no go gauge. and I turned a prototype base out of aluminum minus the mounting holes.
taskLight.jpg
 
I hope you aren't going to actually use that hammer to hit something! Museum pieces should not be used as a hammer - even if they are a hammer! Absolutely stunning blend of wood and metalcraft. "A THING OF BEAUTY".
 
yooper said:
Are you going to move it in and out, or is it going outside to stay? You could lay it down or move it on the diagonal
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In and out, diagonal true enough, but the thing is a few 100 pounds, the web on the base 10 inches. Going to work on a rolling solution see how that will go first.
 
johnnyc14 said:
I have been trying to buy the rotary table option for my 8" Vertex super spacer and not had any luck finding one for a reasonable price. I decided to make one. I started out with a 12" round steel plate that I bought as scrap and a 13.3" GM truck brake rotor. Here's the S.S. without the chuck. as you can see there is a raised boss in the middle to locate the chuck. The boss measures 6.295" and is .200" high.

Then the brake rotor sitting on it.

First I put the rotor in the lathe to whittle it down to 12" from 13.5" and remove most of the metal from one side of the braking surface to provide clearance on the S.S. I didn't get any pics of that process but it made a big mess of cast iron chips.

Then I mounted the chuck back on the S.S. and used the mill and a 3/8" roughing end mill to carve out the center of the rotor to a rough dimension close to the 6.297" I was aiming for then I used a finishing end mill for the final cut and hit the dimension perfectly.

A perfect fit!

Then I located and drilled the 3 bolt holes in the rotor to align with the existing chuck bolt holes in the S.S. I then used a 3/4" end mill from the other side to provide clearance for the 10mm socket head cap screws.

I used a 1/4 chamfer end mill to radius the edges top and bottom.

Then I drilled 6 holes for 8mm shcs's into the steel round plate and tapped the holes in the rotor and bolted the plate to the rotor and mounted the whole assembly in the lathe and faced the plate off nice and flat. the bolt heads are counter sunk .020" below the surface of the plate.

There are 4 existing 5/8" threaded holes on the plate and I added another unthreaded 5/8" hole to the center while it was in the lathe. You can still see some shadows from a piece that was welded to the plate but you can't feel them.


20151128_161917_zpso8byp1im.jpg

Then it went back to the mill where I drilled and tapped twenty two 3/8" holes for hold downs.

Now to make the hold down straps and studs, that will be another day. The I can get started on the project that motivated me to make the rotary table.
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Looks like you are really enjoying that new mill John.:eagerness:

Mike.
 
pepi said:
In and out, diagonal true enough, but the thing is a few 100 pounds, the web on the base 10 inches. Going to work on a rolling solution see how that will go first.
Click to expand...
2 wheel dolly come to mind. Maybe add a wheel on a stiff leg.
 
I mostly work in wood, but my current project is my "justification" for upgrading from my cheapo CNC mill to something nicer (going to go with a G0704). This is the in-progress prototype of a new guitar design of my own that I am calling the "Photon". Sapele and Zebrawood body with doug fir, bloodwood, and zebrawood neck. I will be making the knobs, bridge, tuners, and pickups on this one. I'm really digging it so far.

DSCN0300_zpsv2xxbg9g.jpg
 
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