2015 POTD Thread Archive

I have had some funny experiences with woodworkers who had no experience with metal working machinery. They assumed that the woodworking machines were inherently safer than the metal working machines since they were designed to cut softer material!
Has anyone else run into that?
R

Strange thinking, since metal working machines are more precise with "controlled" motion in available degrees of freedom. Nothing I can think of activates my pucker reflex more than a large, hand held router. Three + HP at 20+K RPM will rip into anything it touches. Whatever type of equipment, it's about the cutting edges and pinch/crush points. Back to projects.
 
Well my PM932 mill is sold so I spent the morning taking it down off the stand and moving the Ferro mill into it's place. Here are a few pics.

The shop started the day looking like this.

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To move the big mill I screwed the leveling feet down through the base as far as possible to raise the base enough the get my floor jack under it. I removed the jack pad and the front wheels from the jack so it would fit under the base frame of the mill. I raised it one side at a time enough to get my heavy duty wheels under it, threaded onto the leveling bolts.

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It's amazing how easy a 2500 lb machine moves with the right wheels under it. I rolled it about 5 feet forward to get access to the PM mill with the engine crane.

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I removed the power feed motor and the motor that moves the head up-down and put them into the little wood pallets that came with the machine. I lowered the head as low as I dared and used a tennis ball under the spindle to hold the power feed motor in the box. The 2 little pallets are held down with T-nuts and studs. I also removed the X and Y axis handles.

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I wrapped a 5000lb strap around the head where it fastens to the column and used my engine crane to lift the machine off the base and lowered it onto some cinder blocks where it will rest until the new owner comes to pick it up.

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Then I maneuvered the big mill into the space where the PM machine was. This really gives me a lot more space.

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I used the jack again to remove the wheels and install the leveling feet and get it leveled. There's only about 6" of clearance under my furnace but that won't be a problem unless I have to remove the motor from the mill.

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The new owner of the PM mill is from Calgary and is going to pick it up Thursday evening. It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to load it and get him on his way.

Looks great John.

Mike.
 
Have all the fingers but have a few scars on them, One router bit, took the end off one, cleaned it up and taped it back on and it stayed, now just a scar. Was sharping a knife in the kitchen when wife walked up, turned it away from her and cut the back off the knuckle cleaned it up, taped it down and it healed, Still gives me problems though. Always though my dad was nuts, He tested a light socket by putting a finger in it. but he kept all his fingers even doing all kinds of grinding, cutting etc.
 
John, the new mill looks like it is a little tighter fit. But looks good. A little more mill, (more projects )
 
I decided to install a DRO system on my friend's mill. I got the igaging Absolute system and am really impressed with it.
The X axis scale is mounted on the rear of the table. I made end blocked from .750" aluminum plate and made a cover from 2 1/2" angle milled to 1.250" on one side.
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The X axis is done in a similar manner. The scale was mounted to the machine base and pieces of aluminum angle were used to make a bracket to connect the reader head to the saddle.
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The Z axis is installed but I haven't made the cover yet
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I just have to clean up the wiring and it will be done.
This little job has taken a lot out of me. I will spend the weekend resting.
 
Hi

I'm into customizing motorcycles and I'm currently building a new rear end for my Kawasaki H1.
Early in the project I decided to use a rear wheel hub from a 78 KZ750. After a while I decided that this hub is uglier than a monkey's armpit, so I set out to modify the hub just to make it look better.

Here are some pictures taken during the process.

First the "before and after" picture.
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I used the big press at work to get that ugly flange off.
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Flange removed and hub sand blasted.
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I made a two-piece mandrel for chucking the hub in the lathe.
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Mandrel fitted.
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Center drilled in the other end.
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This is close to maximum diameter for my small lathe.
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Finished hub machining.
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In this mosaic picture I'm making a new flange to replace the one I removed. The flange is made out of 20mm thick cast aluminum plate.
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The finished flange.
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I made an interference fit between the flange an the hub. The flange will be heated to 200 deg celsius before placing it on the hub.
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A guide pin was used to "synchronize" the spoke holes.
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The finished hub, drive side.
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The finished hub, brake side.
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"just to make it look better"

You met your goal in fine fashion. Very nice work and good pics too.
 
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