2015 POTD Thread Archive

[Franko]

Hey Franko- what if you simply splayed the legs out further? If they are angled 30* included angle, maybe cut and reweld the associated brackets to 40* or so? Seems that simply welding an offset in the legs themselves would lessen the hoist's capacity.

I agree, splay them legs
Isn't your hoist a 2 ton? I lifted my 1 ton mill with just the boom extended cause the legs wouldn't go around the pallet it was on, should have no problems hoisting a baby mill.

If I splay them it will shorten them. I'll have to cut and re-weld them. I was thinking of putting a Z bend in them so they would be parallel about 32" or wider apart. They'd still fold up for storage, could be rolled through a door while folded, and it would be a more useful tool. The thing has been not wide enough for everything I've used it for.

The complicating issue is that it's made with metric tube. Expensive around here. I could make the middle section of the Z with a close size of inch tube and cut the other two from the existing legs without losing any length.

Ken, I could have cribbed them up above the extended mill foot brackets. I thought of it, but was able to accomplish the task by ooching it onto the stand one foot at a time, though it felt dangerous. My hoist is a one-ton.

 

[JimDawson]

I am doing good wiring up 110V but that box to me doesn't look quite right. Those neutral bare wires, shouldn't they behind all the power leads. From your photo looks like a couple were added later.

The neutral lug actually sticks out about 1/2 inch further than the power lugs. That's the reason the wires are routed like that. Normally the neutral would be connected to the neutral bus on the bottom, but the design of this panel is with the neutral bus on the top with a bus bar connecting them. It's an obsolete design. Newer panels have a separate neutral and ground. If I were installing a new panel I would use a 4 wire system with an isolated ground. It meets code like it is, but not the best.

 

[Franko]

This is what I'm thinking on the HF engine hoist modification.
Clearance between the legs is 34".
The other two leg sections can be made from the existing legs, which are 2.75" x .125 wall.
The center section of the Z is 3.5" x 3/16" wall square tube — in my stock hoard.
If there is a torque force on the legs, I may need to run a 3" square tube across the width, which will fit inside the 3.5" tube.
I can make this without buying any steel, unless I need a center brace. A center brace would need to be removed to fold the legs up.

 

[sanddan]

Franko, your drawing looks similar to how I did mine. I had the tubing in my scrap pile, the unpainted section is the new material. I think it was 1/4" wall tubing but don't quote me on it. My hoist doesn't fold up so yours would be somewhat different. I've moved my 12x36 Enco lathe without issue but the ram is getting tired, about 25 yrs old now. When not using it I knock it down and store the pieces under the motorhome.

 

[sanddan]

I agree, splay them legs
Isn't your hoist a 2 ton? I lifted my 1 ton mill with just the boom extended cause the legs wouldn't go around the pallet it was on, should have no problems hoisting a baby mill.

If it's like my hoist the rating goes down as the boom arm get's longer. The legs should extend out at least to the end of the boom or the hoist get's tippy, as in the rear wheels coming off the floor. Ask me how I know that. LOL.

 

[Franko]

Thanks, Sanddan. That's just what I was looking for. I think I've seen it before, but couldn't find it.
Mine being a folding hoist, it is a different configuration.
I like the wide stance of your setup. Mine will just be 34" but should be enough to approach everything I've needed to lift so far. With it folded, I'll be able to roll it sideways through my 36" shop door.

I picked up a section of schedule 40 2.5" pipe to use on the center of the Z. A little more work to notch the square tube, but I think it will be less prone to twist. My concern about the legs torquing up was misplaced. The wheels are in a direct line with were the legs connect to the frame of the hoist.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

finished the T-nut for my QCTP, from mystery steel on my drill press. Cut to measure, file to fit

 

[T Bredehoft]

finished the T-nut for my QCTP, from mystery steel on my drill press. Cut to measure, file to fit

That's not only the best way, that's the only way, anyone can trust the readout, (DRO), but can you really trust it?

 

[savarin]

Made a knob, the large part is 80mm dia.
Still needs finishing and polishing.

Lots of chatter on the countersink but that will polish out.

 

[Franko]

Looks like it will work, Savarin.

All plans for what I thought I'd do today have changed.
The refrigerator went on the blink yesterday. It's 25 years old and has had the defrosting coils replaced at least 3 times already. I have to put on my cammies and go hunting for a refrigerator, or decide to have it expensively fixed one more time.