2015 POTD Thread Archive

Now there's a Duh moment. I had completely forgotten about tannic acid. And I worked in the Mill Standards group at Kroehler when I first got out of HS.
Perhaps I'll try Plast-i-dip in the holes and seal it up, else, it's always quicker the second time around...
 
RJSakowski said:
Of late, I drill the socket for the drill shank and squirt some Super Glue into the socket and slide the drill home. It sets in a few minutes and I have never had one break loose in use. To remove the drill, simply heat with a torch or heat gun and pull the drill out.
Click to expand...

Just don't breath the fumes coming off the heated cyanoacrylate adhesives. That stuff will knock you down coughing.....
-brino
 
4 year old craftsman 19 volt drill, ruined. Grinding metal to close, got to armature. Thing started smoking when
turned on.

Have 14 volt red drill. Got at thrift shop for $5. Jumpered leads for test, worked okay. No battery. Sure are
expensive for a battery.

Swapped drill housings. Not much room inside for wiring. Enlarged hole in back of drill for a splice.


back_drill.JPG drill_housing.JPG




Charl
 
OK so I kept forgetting to take these photos of the Railings I am installing. The ones I needed the extended drill bit for. I also made a extended tap wrench and a Apex tap holder. I will get them up here too but I have been rushing to make them and forgetting to get photos.

So here are the Rails. No they are Stainless not brass as the photos make them look. There is 200'-250' of this rail.

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This one started as a very simple bushing to convert a 1/2" hole for 1/4-20 camera mounting screw.
My client changed the camera on the rig from Nikon to a Canon. The angle bracket it is mounted on (for portrait format) was made for a Nikon. There is a ridge that fits against the camera body to keep the camera from twisting on the mount.

The original mount for the Nikon was a little low for the Canon, as there is a USB cable that must clear at the bottom. The plan was to make a bushing so the camera could be raised up about 3/4".

when I brought the bracket home, it dawned on me that I could make the bushing adjustable (up, down, left, right and diagonal) by making a slot instead of a round hole. The bushing can be rotated to provide the best purchase on the ridge for camera stability.

I milled the 1/2" hole in the bracket to 3/4" so I could increase the adjustment potential.

I also replaced the allen head tripod screw with a knob screw.

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I finally finished fabbing up a bearing retainer for the right end of the mill table. It is a close copy of the unit on the left side. My mill came with a factory installed geared motor power drive that supported the bearings, and didn't have rapids - max speed was 7.5 ipm. It didn't have the normal end for a modern servo drive to attach to. Clausing wanted $460 US for a replacement. The end section was made from two pieces of aluminum welded together. The weld was cleaned up here with a 3/4" ball nose end mill while rotated on the rotary table. Final blend and rub with scotchbrite pad on air grinder.

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