2 X 48 Belt Grinder (again)

[Mark_f]

I cut my table on the bandsaw and started on the miter gauge. The larger hole is where you will read the angle setting:



Unfortunately, there are some lines in the material that don't look so great. The table is 304 SS so these may be hard to sand out by hand. If only I had a surface grinder! Any other ideas on how to get these out? Just a lot of elbow grease?




This edge was actually done on the belt grinder itself. Works well even without a table.


Robert

Remember, the angle markings on the outer edge must originate from the pivot point of the miter gage to work correctly

 

[rwm]

I sand blasted the table. It looks good but it will scratch easily and attract dirt. Maybe when Mark and Bill get the surface grinder done.....



Next, degree marks
R

Edit: Mark- yes the table edge is cut using the pivot point as the center. The miter fence will lie along radians from that center. The hole in the center of the miter fence will allow you to see the marks. Not sure how that will work out yet for visibility but it will allow me to use a thicker miter fence if desired. I'm a little worried about my stamping ability!
Thanks
Robert

 

[Mark_f]

I sand blasted the table. It looks good but it will scratch easily and attract dirt. Maybe when Mark and Bill get the surface grinder done.....



Next, degree marks
R

Edit: Mark- yes the table edge is cut using the pivot point as the center. The miter fence will lie along radians from that center. The hole in the center of the miter fence will allow you to see the marks. Not sure how that will work out yet for visibility but it will allow me to use a thicker miter fence if desired. I'm a little worried about my stamping ability!
Thanks
Robert

Make the origination point of your degree lines fall on the edge of your miter gage by shifting the origin point to where the edge is instead of the center, then the marks will line up with the edge of the miter gage and be easier to read.

 

[rwm]

Make the origination point of your degree lines fall on the edge of your miter gage by shifting the origin point to where the edge is instead of the center, then the marks will line up with the edge of the miter gage and be easier to read.

That was my original plan but I went this way instead. Pics later.
R

 

[rwm]

I cut the lines on the mini mill and made a jig to stamp the numbers:





Not too bad. The 5 is low but that is my stamp, not my mistake. I don't like the overall appearance of the table sandblasted. I need to improve that somehow.
OK enough of this meticulous work. I will get the table on and get some video!

R

 

[rwm]

Please comment on this crazy idea!

What if I attach my table to an arm that is attached to a gearhead motor on an eccentric disc. That would move the table back and forth with say a 3" stroke. Say 1 stroke per sec.
Then I would place the table face down on medium grit emery cloth attached to a slab of granite. I would place appropriate weights on the table and let this contraption run for a few hours. Would that work as a poor mans surface grinder? Should I consider doing it wet? What is the advantage of wet sanding? Who want's to see this setup?

Robert

 

[Randall Marx]

Robert,
I've been coming back to this thread occasionally and thoroughly enjoying seeing how you set up and build your grinder. I don't comment as often as I probably should when I am reading everyone's posts and builds, but I gain much in the way of general setup inspiration and ideas for projects. I've been getting some equipment setup so that I can start making tooling and stuff. One piece that I really want to build is a belt grinder. I like many of the features of both your grinder and Mark F.'s grinder and will likely incorporate some of each into my own when I finally get to make it.
Now, I would love to see your setup for sanding/grinding a flat surface without a surface grinder. I don't have one either, but your idea sounds very interesting! If I understand the issue correctly, the fluid used in wet sanding and wet lapping is there largely to carry the products of abrasion (dust and freed grit) away from the surface and keep it from clogging the abrasive film/paper/cloth. It effectively makes the media last longer and stay sharper. That is the main benefit I have seen in wet sanding when doing body/paint work on cars.
Sorry for the rambling, but thank you for sharing your process.

 

[rwm]

Thanks Randall; I'm glad you are watching. After I get some time using the machine I will make a critique of the design and have some input for other builders. I already see a few problems and a few valuable features with this.
Back to the table...
I thought about my idea above and realized that material removal that way would take about 19,000 years to get the table evenly finished. So I threw caution to the wind and put some coarse paper on my random orbit sander. In about 10 minutes I had most of the marks out of the metal and a nice looking finish.





The degree marks are now much more visible. The fine arcs left by the sander actually look really good. I am pleased with it.
Video today, promise.
Robert

 

[rwm]

I tested the new grinder and here is the video. Pretty amazing!

Robert

 

[octane_matty]

Holy smokes it eats metal for breakfast lunch and dinner


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