1922 Change Gear Stud With Grease Fitting

AlexPeel159

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Does anyone happen to have a picture of just the change gear stud bolt with the grease fitting in the end? Interested in the the specs and where the grease port exited on the bolt. I have some replacement bolt on my lathe and seeing as how is over $250 dollars on the Logan site to replace the entire stud bolt assembly I thought it might be a nice project to make one myself. None of the studs I see on Ebay have the grease fitting in them meaning they dont come from the 1900 series lathes (not sure what other lathes this might have been on) or its something that breaks frequently and gets replaced by a standard bolt. The diagram does not give much detail in the part list. Part LA-786 with 01122 grease fitting is what I am talking about. Looks like the grease tube might go down the center to LA-787 but I cant tell after that.

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This may not be the case with the specific bolt you are referring to, however, worth considering...

My experience with bolts like those are that they usually have a bore of slightly less diameter than the thread size for the Zerk fitting running to a specific depth, that being no deeper than absolutely neccessary.

Along the length of the outside of said bolt there is, usually, one, or more, small, milled flats, with a hole to allow the grease to push through where there is a rotating item, such as a gear. The flats on the bolt outer diameter allow a "pad" of grease to be created and picked up by the item rotating about said bolt at that point.

These bolts usually have a plain shank where the rotating item (gear, bush et-al) sit on it, with the threaded section being only enough to fully engage in the nut or, in case of machinery, the housing / casting it affixes to plus up to 20% extra thread, dependant on design specs.

In the case of a bush, the milled flat and hole would, usually, be in the middle of the length of the bush, so if it was, say, a 2" long bush, the grease hole would be at 1" from the end, thus being in the centre of the bush.
 
The 800, 1800, 900 & 1900 share a lot of parts. The 800/1800 use a bolt rather than a stud without a zerk.

Thinking through the purpose, the spacer gear spins with the drive gear, so no lubrication required, the lube only lubricates the drive gear. I think the original stud/bushing must have a cross drilled hole for the grease to leave the inside of the bushing to the gear side. I did a quick search on the https://groups.io/g/Lathe-List/topic/19162366#msg31553 forum and the message link I posted is exactly the same, except the price was 1/3 in 2016. You might try looking through the picture albums to see if any details are shown.

Edit. After re-reading GrifterGuru's post, my thought is the zerk threads are only in the head because of the key.
 
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The 800, 1800, 900 & 1900 share a lot of parts. The 800/1800 use a bolt rather than a stud without a zerk.

Thinking through the purpose, the spacer gear spins with the drive gear, so no lubrication required, the lube only lubricates the drive gear. I think the original stud/bushing must have a cross drilled hole for the grease to leave the inside of the bushing to the gear side. I did a quick search on the https://groups.io/g/Lathe-List/topic/19162366#msg31553 forum and the message link I posted is exactly the same, except the price was 1/3 in 2016. You might try looking through the picture albums to see if any details are shown.

Edit. After re-reading GrifterGuru's post, my thought is the zerk threads are only in the head because of the key.
The price I saw was for the entire assembly. Did not think of contacting them to see if just the bolt was available. Still very pricy at 71.
 
Edit. After re-reading GrifterGuru's post, my thought is the zerk threads are only in the head because of the key.

@Shiseiji

That is usually the case, though the exact size and depth of thread required is reliant upon the size of zerk fitting in relation to bolt-head size as well as bolt-shank diameter, taking into consideration the intended grease type, size of the grease exit hole and the milled flat.

There is a calculation for it, but I will be damned if I can find it at the moment.
 
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From my experience with Logan Lathes & a shaper, I would be surprised if it was anything exotic.
 
The price I saw was for the entire assembly. Did not think of contacting them to see if just the bolt was available. Still very pricy at 71.
Yes "but" I look at it this way. Wearhousing cost? Bank note cost? Inventory management cost? His recent purchase, shipping to IL of 3 trailer loads of the last known NOS? Scott 's good will in answering every question he can on the lathes & shapers? IMHO Priceless. He will be sorely missed when he's gone.
 
Yes "but" I look at it this way. Wearhousing cost? Bank note cost? Inventory management cost? His recent purchase, shipping to IL of 3 trailer loads of the last known NOS? Scott 's good will in answering every question he can on the lathes & shapers? IMHO Priceless. He will be sorely missed when he's gone.
I am not knocking Logan or Scott. I have already sent him several hundred dollars in the last month or two for various parts and Scott has walked me through diagnosing some oddities on my lathe. The fact that Logan still exists and I can buy parts from them is the main reason I got a Logan.

I am simply meaning I already have a bolt that works so its not a priority to replace especially at the price for new. My credit card is already complaining to me. I was more thinking it would be a fun project for a newbie lathe owner.
 
Sorry, I do apologize. Over almost a decade now I've heard as many complaints as I've heard complements. I don't think many understand what goes into having a part on the shelf.

I'm happy to get any deal I can, eBay or a person to person sale through one of the forums. Shop made is just part of the hobby, always a balance. One of my favorite sayings is Good|Quick|Cheap. You can have any two. I've cried several times purchasing what I wish I had the skills to make.
 
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