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I have an older wood/metal Delta. Would like to help you. But what clutch? Have not looked in the back for some time. But still don’t recall a clutch? There is a high /low shifter on mine…Dave
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14" Delta Rockwell metal/wood bushing material?
- Thread starter Siggi
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The clutch must have been a development on the latter version. I have a Delta Milwaukee from I believe the 40's. It has the shifter but you only run one belt at a time.
The belt guard isn't original, I made it.
I bought a roll of blade and silver solder mine.
Greg
The belt guard isn't original, I made it.
I bought a roll of blade and silver solder mine.
Greg
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- Mar 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,448
There are two different versions of the 14" Delta Wood/Metal Bandsaw gearbox. The older one had a lever that engaged the gears, the newer style has a push-pull knob. I'm not sure of the exact year the change was made but the documents that I have dated 1958 show the "new" style. The document dated 1946 shows the "old" style.
Mkay, I have the gearbox open - that was pretty much unnecessary. The oil in there could have done with a 'freshing in the next decade or two, but other than that there was no need to pop the lid. Now that I popped the lid, I guess I'll go ahead and pull the upper shaft as well, give it a good clean and see whether the bearings need replacing. I'd be very surprised if they do, seeing as they'll be getting an oil slosh from the inside so long as the lower pulley has a belt on it.
Interesting to see that the gears are helical - they sure didn't spare any expense.
Goddamn it - on disassembling the gearbox, I find that the main casting is cracked! Looking at the pictures I took before disassembly, I see it was there when I got it home, and I don't think we mishandled it in transit. So likely the casting or the pulley took a hit in previous owner's care
This is on the outside of the bearing surface for the lower shaft just above the upper lip of the gearbox mount:
And here from the inside, sorry about the focus, it's near-impossible to get a good picture of this with my phone:
It doesn't appear it's been leaking appreciably through the crack, and because the gearbox clamps and stabilizes the lower end of the crack, I don't think this is terminal. I figure the forces on the shaft will be straight down onto the gearbox mount, so that should be OK, but goddamn it!
I don't have any way to repair this properly, so I'm tempted to e.g. seal the crack with JB weld or the like on the inside, paint it on the outside and see how it fares.
WDYT?
This is on the outside of the bearing surface for the lower shaft just above the upper lip of the gearbox mount:
And here from the inside, sorry about the focus, it's near-impossible to get a good picture of this with my phone:
It doesn't appear it's been leaking appreciably through the crack, and because the gearbox clamps and stabilizes the lower end of the crack, I don't think this is terminal. I figure the forces on the shaft will be straight down onto the gearbox mount, so that should be OK, but goddamn it!
I don't have any way to repair this properly, so I'm tempted to e.g. seal the crack with JB weld or the like on the inside, paint it on the outside and see how it fares.
WDYT?
Mkay, the seller tells me he "can't do anything for me", if I wanted to e.g. have the crack braised. I can't say I'm surprised, guess this goes with the territory.
I was worried that perhaps it had cracked due to been mis-assembly. I could see the casting being crushed by tightening the nut on the lower wheel if the spacer behind the large gear wasn't inserted on re-assembly after changing bearings or such. If this spacer were missing, the shaft would pull in the sides of the casting instead of tightening the spacer against the inner bearing race on the wheel side.
Maybe that's what happened, but from initially eyeballing, it looks like the dimensions from the outside of the pulley-side bearing to the outside of the spacer is in the ballpark for where this'd assemble without stress.
I've put down a layer of JB Weld on both outside and inside of the casting, will have to see how she holds up. At minimum the JB weld should seal against oil leaks, and the limit it'll lend a little bit of additional support to the crack.
Worst case I can always try and find someone to braise up the crack later if need be.
So, once the JB weld sets on the inside, it's back to (<expletive>) painting.
I was worried that perhaps it had cracked due to been mis-assembly. I could see the casting being crushed by tightening the nut on the lower wheel if the spacer behind the large gear wasn't inserted on re-assembly after changing bearings or such. If this spacer were missing, the shaft would pull in the sides of the casting instead of tightening the spacer against the inner bearing race on the wheel side.
Maybe that's what happened, but from initially eyeballing, it looks like the dimensions from the outside of the pulley-side bearing to the outside of the spacer is in the ballpark for where this'd assemble without stress.
I've put down a layer of JB Weld on both outside and inside of the casting, will have to see how she holds up. At minimum the JB weld should seal against oil leaks, and the limit it'll lend a little bit of additional support to the crack.
Worst case I can always try and find someone to braise up the crack later if need be.
So, once the JB weld sets on the inside, it's back to (<expletive>) painting.
Well, I think I've discovered why the casting's cracked, and it seems pretty weird.
After I re-inserted the main shaft, I noticed that the large gear wheel was rubbing against the casting. I remember when I disassembled the gears I found it strange that there was a fair bit of axial play in the big gear. I figured I'd noticed this after I'd started pushing the spindle through, which would explain it, but now I'm seeing it with the spindle in place, and the pulley-side bearing seated.
I'm pretty sure the gear should have no axial play. I believe the wheel (141) (parts # from the instruction guide on the Vintage Machinery site) the inner race of the main wheel bearing (143), the spacer (149) and the inner race of the gear wheel's bearing (151) should all tighten up against the retaining ring (153).
So, I tapped out the wheel bearing (it's an 87026) and reinserted the spindle, and sure enough, the goddamn spacer is short. If I were to tighten up the wheel on the spindle, I'd crush the casting before I'd start tightening against the retaining ring. If I crushed things all the way up, I'd have the gear wheel rubbing the casting.
WTH???
It's pretty tight to get the gear wheel and spacer into place if the bearing's there, I found myself wondering how the hell this was assembled to begin with.
So, I'm betting what happened is that some mechanical genius (I could see myself doing this
) reassembled things in the wrong order, and couldn't get the gear wheel and spacer in. Then, rather than pulling the bearing out, said genius decided to face off the spacer a little until it fit.
I can't fathom how this would have otherwise happened?
[Edit] spindle ~> shaft (what were you thinking?)
After I re-inserted the main shaft, I noticed that the large gear wheel was rubbing against the casting. I remember when I disassembled the gears I found it strange that there was a fair bit of axial play in the big gear. I figured I'd noticed this after I'd started pushing the spindle through, which would explain it, but now I'm seeing it with the spindle in place, and the pulley-side bearing seated.
I'm pretty sure the gear should have no axial play. I believe the wheel (141) (parts # from the instruction guide on the Vintage Machinery site) the inner race of the main wheel bearing (143), the spacer (149) and the inner race of the gear wheel's bearing (151) should all tighten up against the retaining ring (153).
So, I tapped out the wheel bearing (it's an 87026) and reinserted the spindle, and sure enough, the goddamn spacer is short. If I were to tighten up the wheel on the spindle, I'd crush the casting before I'd start tightening against the retaining ring. If I crushed things all the way up, I'd have the gear wheel rubbing the casting.
WTH???
It's pretty tight to get the gear wheel and spacer into place if the bearing's there, I found myself wondering how the hell this was assembled to begin with.
So, I'm betting what happened is that some mechanical genius (I could see myself doing this
) reassembled things in the wrong order, and couldn't get the gear wheel and spacer in. Then, rather than pulling the bearing out, said genius decided to face off the spacer a little until it fit.I can't fathom how this would have otherwise happened?
[Edit] spindle ~> shaft (what were you thinking?)
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Hmmm, perhaps all that's wrong is that the main wheel bearing was installed inside out. Looks the inner race is offset from the outer race, and is also slightly larger. Looks like installing the bearing the wrong way would offset the shaft about 63 thou, which might we all we're talking here.
TIL from reading bearing spec sheets.
TIL from reading bearing spec sheets
.
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Yups, looks like the play I'm seeing is ~65 thou, which puts all the dominos in a row. Gotta get a new main wheel bearing as I thrashed the old one when I tapped it out. I guess this is something to watch out for with these old beauties.
