10" Atlas Countershaft Question

Yes there is a threaded section that the grease cup screws onto. With a near full cup, one screws it on the threads and one gives a turn once in a while. When the cup bottoms out, remove the cup refill with grease and reinstall. Very simple and easy way to lube over a long period of time. A google search for ”grease cup countershaft atlas lathe” shows many photos etc.
Pierre
 
Thanks! Then I guess the temptation when using a grease fitting and gun is to pump in a lot more grease than you would by just turning the grease cup.
 
Found this!


This is a scan of an old lubrication chart! It will help a lot!

They seem to recommend SAE 10 motor oil for almost everything. I've been using SAE 30 for a long time with no ill effects. How about anyone else. What are you guys using for general lubing of bearings, gears and screws?
 
I had SAE 20 available, so that is what I used.
Pierre
 
To take the last question first, Atlas changed the recommendation sometime in the 50's (retroactive) to SAE 20 ND. Although it didn't specifically say ND at the time. HD (for High Detergent) didn't start showing up for use in cars & trucks until later.

SAE 20 is approximately equivalent to ISO 68.

There are several reasons for not using HD. One is that the purpose of one or some of the detergents is to scavenge moisture from the air trapped within the newer engines after the mid to late 60's. As machine tools aren't sealed and should never get hot enough to boil off the accumulated moisture, this detergent is actually detrimental. The others are that none of the other detergents have any beneficial effects and quite often the oil costs more.

Back to the grease, the practice of pumping new grease into a joint until it starts to come out the seals or wherever is another mostly automotive practice based on the fact that greasing is only done every few thousand miles and that in operation, dirt and water that might get into the joint is mostly pumped out by the practice. On machine tools, hopefully they won't ever be submerged in water and mud so only a little fresh grease is supplied each day or before each use in the case of hobby machines.

On the felt washers, their primary purpose is to keep chips and dust out of the bearings. And secondarily to retard grease slinging. For the secondary purpose, they would not be effective against oil.
 
Thanks for all that info! Can non-detergent oil even be had these days? Maybe not from an automotive source but perhaps from a machine tool source? I've seen on commonly on ebay way oil and spindle oil. I'm gonna guess that spindle oil is for bearings and bushings and way oil is from everything else, like lead screws, gears and the bed ways.

Does that sound right?
 
Most oil producers have non detergent oils in their line up. Even ACDelco had SAE 20 and 30 when I was working at dealership.
 
Does SAE refer to an oil being non detergent? I figured that was just indicating that the oil had only one viscosity rating. Like SAE30 vs 10w-30. People would refer to SAE30 as "straight 30".
 
SAE is for Society of Automotive Engineering which had set standards for many products found around the world. I personally have never seen a SAE non detergent oil that had a variable viscosity like 10W30 etc. Doesn’t mean there isn’t one out there. Today‘s oil have an ISO standard that is also recognized around the world, and has superseded the SAE standards of yesterday. Anyway, you are looking for “straight” X0 oil.
 
To get back to your vibration problem, that usually indicates that one or more of the pulleys are out of balance. To fix it you are going to have to find or build a widget that will indicate where the heavy side is. Or if you assume that there are no inclusions, bubbles, etc. in the casting (and hopefully there are none), what I would do is to mount the pulley on an arbor and mount that in the chuck of another lathe. And true up the outside of the casting Basically, a dial indicator touching the pulley anywhere should not move. That includes down in the belt grooves.
 
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