Parkson 1NA horizontal vertical mill.

[Charles scozzari]

I’m thinking of making a plug out of wood for a pattern and then machine a block of steel as close as possible To a snug fit. Then drill and dowel pin thru the casting and steel block from the sides. I’m hoping it is ambidextrous and I’ll turn it around and put the repair to the rear. It’ll be right at the clamp at the rear of the machine.
Martin

Really like that idea.

 

[Charles scozzari]

Nice mill. Why would anyone butcher a mill in that way?

Might have been a dedicated mill or they never intended to use it horizontally. I bought a lathe from a guy that cut up the bed to cut drums and rotors. I needed other parts from it.

 

[FOMOGO]

Was thinking along similar lines. Can you post a pic of the other piece of the ram? The nice thing about using the original piece is you could use the top ways and gib of the machine for near perfect alignment. Mike

I’m thinking of making a plug out of wood for a pattern and then machine a block of steel as close as possible To a snug fit. Then drill and dowel pin thru the casting and steel block from the sides. I’m hoping it is ambidextrous and I’ll turn it around and put the repair to the rear. It’ll be right at the clamp at the rear of the machine.
Martin

 

[Martin W]

That a nice idea and a solution. Did you happen to check out the horizontal Parkson mill info at tonylathe co. UK?

Thanks Charles. Yes I have been studying the info there.

 

[Martin W]

Might have been a dedicated mill or they never intended to use it horizontally. I bought a lathe from a guy that cut up the bed to cut drums and rotors. I needed other parts from it.

Yes, I agree, probably never been used as a horizontal. The gentleman I bought it from mounted a pedestal drill to the side of it. Was a great idea, he wanted to keep the drill.
Martin

 

[Martin W]

Was thinking along similar lines. Can you post a pic of the other piece of the ram? The nice thing about using the original piece is you could use the top ways and gib of the machine for near perfect alignment. Mike

 

[Martin W]

So I fitted the two pieces back together. I face milled the end of each on the boring mill to get rid of the saw cuts. I mounted the pieces on some 89 mm square parallels on the dovetail , to hold them square and level. I could use the table slots to square it up to clamp. It fits very well.See picture
My plan now is to take that block of steel sitting on top of the cut piece. Mount these back on the boring mill table and mill a square pocket on each one with a 1-1/2” x 4” end mill. I can then mill the block and radius the corners to fit. 4” into each piece isn’t much, but I think it’ll be fine. I can drill and tap from the bottom and bolt it with some countersink bolts. It’s a pretty heavy casting. I’m not worried about strength.
Anyways that’s all for now, I’m busy at work and don’t have much time I’m just happy it’s going to work. It’s a pain with the parking attachment because the arm is the wrong length because the ram was cut. Had to lift it off with my hoist. Hung it on the parking stand for a picture.lol
Martin

 

[FOMOGO]

Would it be possible to dowel the milled ends, machine a slot in each curved end, drill both ends longitudinally, and run a piece of 3/4, or 1" threaded rod all the way through to put the whole thing under tension. You could even use some industrial epoxy on the faces before tightening it down. Just a thought. Mike

 

[Charles scozzari]

So I fitted the two pieces back together. I face milled the end of each on the boring mill to get rid of the saw cuts. I mounted the pieces on some 89 mm square parallels on the dovetail , to hold them square and level. I could use the table slots to square it up to clamp. It fits very well.See pictureView attachment 483486View attachment 483487View attachment 483488View attachment 483489
My plan now is to take that block of steel sitting on top of the cut piece. Mount these back on the boring mill table and mill a square pocket on each one with a 1-1/2” x 4” end mill. I can then mill the block and radius the corners to fit. 4” into each piece isn’t much, but I think it’ll be fine. I can drill and tap from the bottom and bolt it with some countersink bolts. It’s a pretty heavy casting. I’m not worried about strength.
Anyways that’s all for now, I’m busy at work and don’t have much time I’m just happy it’s going to work. It’s a pain with the parking attachment because the arm is the wrong length because the ram was cut. Had to lift it off with my hoist. Hung it on the parking stand for a picture.lol
Martin

Looks really good.

 

[Martin W]

Would it be possible to dowel the milled ends, machine a slot in each curved end, drill both ends longitudinally, and run a piece of 3/4, or 1" threaded rod all the way through to put the whole thing under tension. You could even use some industrial epoxy on the faces before tightening it down. Just a thought. Mike

Good idea! That sounds easier and just as strong.. Thank you.