Yet another scrap bin indicator stop

[phubbman]

In September i picked up a Montgomery Ward (Logan) 10x24 lathe. It was a huge step up from my Atlas made Craftsman 6x18, and i've been really enjoying it. Recently i made some optical center punches and was missing having an indicator stop for the carriage movement. So, off to the scrap bin(s). Some aluminum stock, some brass bits, a small spring, and a small stainless steel hex bolt did the job.



I know different people prefer different methods, but i've come to really appreciate using an indicator stop. I can also replace the indicator with a hard stop by center drilling and tapping a stub of 3/8" rod, then inserting a small machine screw (such as a #8x32) with a lock nut, but i might make a dedicated adjustable hard stop out of steel for durability.

Next up modifying an anonymous center rest to fit the lathe.

 

[Just for fun]

Looks good, Nice Job!

 

[chatter chatter cut cut]

In September i picked up a Montgomery Ward (Logan) 10x24 lathe. It was a huge step up from my Atlas made Craftsman 6x18, and i've been really enjoying it. Recently i made some optical center punches and was missing having an indicator stop for the carriage movement. So, off to the scrap bin(s). Some aluminum stock, some brass bits, a small spring, and a small stainless steel hex bolt did the job.

View attachment 390985View attachment 390984View attachment 390983

I know different people prefer different methods, but i've come to really appreciate using an indicator stop. I can also replace the indicator with a hard stop by center drilling and tapping a stub of 3/8" rod, then inserting a small machine screw (such as a #8x32) with a lock nut, but i might make a dedicated adjustable hard stop out of steel for durability.

Next up modifying an anonymous center rest to fit the lathe.

I like it .been planning to make one myself.

 

[T Bredehoft]

By adding a threaded hole adjacent to the indicator you could fine tune a hard stop.

"What do you mean? a hard stop?"

A 1/4 20 threaded hole with a jam nut and a piece of 1/4 20 all thread. set the stop where it would bump against the compound, and repeat a position, and still keep an eye on the indicator. .

 

[phubbman]

By adding a threaded hole adjacent to the indicator you could fine tune a hard stop.

"What do you mean? a hard stop?"

A 1/4 20 threaded hole with a jam nut and a piece of 1/4 20 all thread. set the stop where it would bump against the compound, and repeat a position, and still keep an eye on the indicator. .

I definitely like that idea. Thanks for the suggestion. Best of both worlds and easy to make.
Stay tuned.

 

[wachuko]

That came out nice. Do share the next version.

I need to make one as well.

 

[LX Kid]

To me a "hard stop" means that it stops the carriage before it runs into the chuck. If belt driven the belt will just slip and the carriage stops.

 

[WobblyHand]

To me a "hard stop" means that it stops the carriage before it runs into the chuck. If belt driven the belt will just slip and the carriage stops.

Just be aware, that if there isn't enough slip, a hard stop can be very damaging. In my case, on a mini-lathe, there was enough force to bend a 10 mm gear shaft in the apron, upon a hard stop. My opinion, a hard stop may save your chuck, but not your lathe. Don't depend on a hard stop. Stay alert when machining.

 

[phubbman]

My understanding was that you should always disengage the carriage feed before the carriage would hit the hard stop, then feed up to it by hand. I would imagine that if the feed was engaged when the carriage hit a hard stop it would still be considered a crash.

sorry about the damage to your lathe. That must have been frustrating to say the least.

 

[Larry$]

I consider a "Hard Stop" something I can feel when I've taken over hand feeding after disengaging the power feed. My lathe has ball detents in the feed shaft that I have adjusted such that they will stop the feed if at some point I have mind up rear BUT that is never to be used as a sort of auto disengage.