Yet another Rockwell/Delta metal/wood bandsaw restore

if both pins, or one of the pins are broken, it won't drive in that speed at all, block or no block. That block was probably added due to it slipping out of high speed during a cut due to vibration, and stopped it from happening. If that block is just standard hem-fir type soft wood, I would just break it to get it out of the way (easy to glue it back together or remake if you want it later).

I also had a bit of difficulty getting the knurled knob off of mine while everything was still assembled. It is a nice tight slip fit with only the set screw holding it on. If folks have removed and installed the set screw in many positions, the set screw bumps on the shaft may be what is now holding the knob on tightly (they may have tapped it on with a hammer). I kept soaking it with my favorite lube, as pretty difficult to get from behind and try to tap it off. Yours with the block on may be worse for access. I eventually got mine off without any tools, but was a struggle. I was ready to try a 3 jaw puller when it finally came off. I almost think the PO used something like lock-tite on it (not necessary).

Before I put the knob back on, I filed the shaft smooth for a nice fit for the knob. I slid it in place without the set screw, marked the set screw location with a sharpie, removed the knob, then filed a small flat onto the shaft where the mark was. Hopefully, next time the knob needs to be removed it will come right off.

A lot of these saws seem to have the shaft with the knob vibrate back and forth during cutting so it jumps out of gear. I didn't have any trouble with that initially, but had not used it for more than 10-20 minutes at a pop in either range. I just finished building a lay flat (for storage) firepit for the wife out of 1/8 HRS plate (assembles with no tools in less than a minute). Between the 1/8 masonite prototype and the metal version, it required about 3 hours of bandsaw work with my 32 tooth blade. Mine did not slip out of high range, but it did slip out of low range 3-4 times. Sounds like the PO added the block to yours to try stop it from vibrating out of high range as they only cut wood with it.
 
Grandpop - I'm going to do exactly that - I'll split it along the grain and install two light screws so I can put it back together, to reuse it. They obviously had it on for a reason. The PO only did woodworking, so that makes sense they wouldn't need to deal with it slipping out of gear.

On a side note, your long, detailed response sounded exactly like the type of answers my Dad would give. It used to drive me crazy when I was much younger when all I wanted was a "Yes/No or do this" quick answer. Now I realize I wouldn't be able to do half the things I do if it wasn't for those long answers. I really appreciate the detailed advice and the time you take to answer all these forum questions. Thank you!
 
robbonj69,
I recently finished a complete restore on my 28-300. The PO had the knurled knob extended all the way out and had it locked down with the set screw??
I had a tough time moving the shaft in to low range as well. It was locked up in the wood mode.
I took it apart to find hardened wood dust and oil had locked up the shaft. Once I cleaned and deburred everything it slides smooth as silk.
There are plenty of videos out there.
I found this guys video to be very helpful especially for our metal/wood gear box and shaft assemblies.
Hope it helps.
Jeff
 
Jeff - Thank you for the video and info. I think I'll cut out of work early today and monkey around with this.

This forum has been great for information and help!

BTW, Jeff, I just saw your other post about your 28-300 rebuild. Great job!
 
I should add, the slit ring that expands the felt washer applies pressure to the shaft and keeps dust and debris out of the sliding mechanism while allowing a lubrication source. I found when I tightened the 180 degree slitted ring, it applied pressure and caused friction to hopefully prevent the shaft from moving out of position during use. Reducing vibration by balancing your wheels, making sure everything is tight and adjusted should also help.
Just 2 more cents. :)
 
I appreciate the follow-up. So I took the wood block off the shaft and was able to work the shift knob off. It was just on there tight. I didn't want to force if off, not knowing if it was threaded.

With that off, I tried to push the shifter into the metal mode, but it won't budge. Even tapping with an old leather mallet, it wouldn't disengage from the large pully lugs. I tried wiggling, spinning, more tapping, threats, promises and a bit of colorful language, and it was a No-Go.

Is that telling me there is pin sheared/sticking out inside? I think I saw a video or thread that described that, but I've been watching so many, I can't be sure.

Or could it be that slitted ring is tightened? I didn't realize there was a slitted ring that could be tightened. I'll have to look closer at that.

Thanks everyone!
 
Well, it took me most of the afternoon, playing around with it, but I got the selector shaft to work. I think it was mostly just gummed up. I also found the slit ring you mentioned, Jeff. It was so full of crud, I didn't see the slits originally.

I tried taking the outer clutch (love-joy) off, but could not get the roll pin out. There was no hole on the opposite side of the pin, so I'm not sure how you all got them off. Scratch that question... I just watched all the videos I saved again and found where alaskabearhawk pointed out there are holes on the back that need to be aligned to drop the pins.

When I put it all back together, the shifter works smoothly, but... No power in metal mode. When I engage it for metal cutting, the wheel turns slightly, but barely. And even then, you can stop it with the slightest of pressure.

I'm guessing I do have a sheared inside roll pin.

The BIG question - can the main shaft be taken out and that inside pin replaced without removing the lower gear assembly? This was 'supposed' to be a quick tune-up so I could cut some metal for a couple of Christmas gifts. Murphy's Law Strikes Again. I appreciate any insight.
 
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Another Update... I just jumped in and pulled the lower gear assembly. The video shared by Jeff, above was a big help. I recommend watching it a few times as you go through the processes. If you casually watch it once or twice, you'll miss some of the seemingly minor details that make a big difference.

A few things I'd like to mention about my particular project...
1. The oil took forever to drain. It was fairly clean but thicker than honey. I rotated the oil spout down and put a funnel under it. Even with that, unless you tip the machine, it doesn't get enough oil out. You'll have it coming out once you break the gasket seal.
2. As he mentions in that video, it takes some work to get the gear assembly out. I used some soft metal wedges to gently pull it out. Then I kept rocking it up/down, back and forth and then it just popped out.
3. The hardest part for me was removing the main shaft. It would go until the internal gear hit the inside back of the housing and then stop. The guy in the video says he used a soft mallet to knock it out. Saying it had to be beaten out was an understatement. For whatever reason, mine seemed impossible to remove. I broke two 2x4 blocks with a 2-pound hammer and it still wouldn't budge past the same point. I was certain there was something loose that was getting caught. I finally just trusted his video when he said there was nothing inside to catch and it would just pop out with some force. I ended up using a big 5" across, hard rubber mallet and gave it a hell of a whack. That moved it 1/8 of an inch. A few more and it came free.
4. Don't forget to replace the keys when you put it back together.
5. Don't forget to replace the snap rings when you put it back together.
6. You get the point. Realistically, I shouldn't have been doing it at midnight, but I was determined to get it back together.

Hopefully, these minor points will help the next guy trying to do this rebuild.
 
Mine gear was stuck pretty tight on the main shift. I had it supported on 2x4s and was using a heavy dead blow, but only moved that same 1/8. Finally supported it with steel tubing scraps, put a peice of aluminum over the shaft, and had at it with a hand sledge hammer. That got it started in one hit.

So now that you got it apart, was the inner pin sheared?

My oil was very thick and would not all drain out either. Took a lot of time/rags to get it all out.
 
Thanks Grandpop! I had to step away from it for a little bit, but finally got it all put back together and it is running like a champ! It was the inner pin.

As much as I hate to admit it, I think I was the one who put the nail in the coffin on it... When I was putting it back together the first time, before removing the gear assembly, I had a hard time getting the main shaft to seat fully. So, like a total rookie, I use a block of wood and 'tapped' it in. Though only the first few hits were taps... After pulling it all apart and having a better understanding of the mechanism, I realized I was tapping on the internal shifting bar, not the main shaft. That put all the force of my not-so-gentle taps on the pins.

Thankfully, I caught myself after replacing them. I was able to put a round metal tube over the shifting shaft and drive it in with the force isolated on the main shaft.

I got new blades in yesterday and was able to cut some 1.5" steel (nice and slow). The saw works perfectly! Thank you, everyone, for all your help and guidance. Hopefully, the next guy reads this and avoids beating the pins to death putting it back together!
 
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