Yet another 1ph 220v reversible motor and switch wiring issue

markba633csi said:
You're right about the endless number of different switches, there also seems to be an endless number of people confused by how to wire them :)
-M
ps in this 3 wire configuration moving T8 from one line wire to the other gives the reversing function, and the start leg only sees 120 volts since it connects to the midpoint of the two run windings
pss you can swap T8 and T5 if the motor rotation is backwards from the switch handle
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Yup, that's me. Just throw in a Chinese equipment manual to help.

Figured about the T5-T8 swap. Somewhere in this stack of hand-drawn schematics piled up on the floor I have/had one that looked something like that, but not quite. I ran that one by the local electric motor guy who said it wouldn't work-'you need the five wires'. My drawing wasn't clear and he was busy so I didn't pursue it.

What year 633?


Tony
 
Oh, I don't have the 633 anymore- it was an 84' which I paid too much for and it was burning oil so I donated it
I do have a 68' Alfa duetto (Graduate car) that looks a bit ratty but runs pretty good
-M
ps he was probably thinking about the reversing 120 volt case, for that you really need 4 wires + ground so 5 total
be sure to provide a ground on yours so 4 total
 
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markba633csi said:
Oh, I don't have the 633 anymore- it was an 84' which I paid too much for and it was burning oil so I donated it
I do have a 68' Alfa duetto (Graduate car) that looks a bit ratty but runs pretty good
-M
....
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The Alfa is not easy to come by these days, either. Just found out today that Dinan opened again in Mountain View.
 
Received the new LW5-16 switch yesterday and the configuration is the same as the LW28-32/3 switch that markba633csi provided in his diagram.
My original LW5-16/3 switch is either some other model number or version OR it's a switch Grizzly ordered with a special configuration, which I think is most likely. I'll wire this one up this morning and provide the results.

(added at 11:46am)
Done, and working very nicely.
Thanks, markba633csi, good work. Pick a local pizza joint and and PM me the details and I'll have a pizza sent tonight.

(added 1:35pm)
Oops. Maybe not. Starts and runs fine on the first try, after the first try motor seems to turn slower with a strong vibration and gets warmer to the touch than it should. Investigating.

tjm
 
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I'm thinking maybe bad capacitor(s)- how old is this motor?
-M
edit: OOps I missed the fact that the motor is not the one in post #1- that changes things- let me take another look
OK I edited the sketch to add the U,V, and Z nomenclature: (my concern about the capacitors still applies though)
12poswmot230Z.jpeg
 
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Sorry, but let me clear this up. I have two motors, both brand new out of the box. The motor with the U-V-Z labeling came from Grizzly at a high price and although 'NEW' it looks like it might have been in that box for 20 years but works perfectly fine, so far. The other new motor, to be used as a backup, has the vibration issue and I'm thinking either a cap or the centrifugal switch isn't working properly or consistently. Before I get into taking it apart to finding the problem I'll check first with the supplier tomorrow morning and provide the results. I'll keep the T-nums to UVW diagram for future reference, though, and I'm sure it'll come in handy.

Thanks,
Tony
 
Update:

Motor supplier requested a video of the unusual vibratory action of the motor and so I powered it up to verify the problem, which still existed, but after the camera gear was setup it no longer would go into the vibration mode. I've been trying it for a couple days and can no longer get that odd vibration response. I'll just leave it alone for now but I think the most likely suspect for an intermittent issue would be maybe a sticky centrifugal switch that didn't cut power to the start winding and after numerous starts in both directions it loosened up. Maybe this is a bad diagnosis but the only other thing would be a intermittent capacitor but I'm thinking once they go bad they're done so I'll rule that out for now. As of right now, everything works as planned.
 
markba633csi said:
LOL darn intermittents!
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Intermittent, but found the problem.

Not the centrifugal portion of the switch, which I thought wasn't operating, but the switch contacts themselves were stuck together and didn't take the starter cap out of the circuit so it actually stayed engaged. When this happens the starter cap circuit remains energized and I suspect it causes a field phasing issue that caused the vibration. Now the question is 'why'. Were the contact points too rough and sticky OR is the starter cap going bad and causing too much current though those small contacts? I polished the contacts so we'll see if that helps.

I gotta say, I've learned more about AC induction motors, with help, since my mill motor went bad than I thought possible.

Tony
 
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Could be a variety of reasons or combination of them. It's possible a failing capacitor is at least partially responsible- or poor quality contact alloy?
You just got your motor diploma, wear it proudly :cupcake:
 
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