Wtb : Clausing 8520 Knee Crank And Some

B

Bobde

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Nov 10, 2015
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Hello

I'm the "new" owner of a Clausing 8520 (yeah!), and am in process to clean her up! I'm missing the original knee crank and maybe someone in this forum has one. Please send me a msg!

Also,I'm in the market for pretty much everything else regarding toolin - t slot nuts, hold down clamps, mt2 collets

Also 2 questions - does anyone know the ball oiler size used on the machine? I have 1 small one to replace. I think it's a gits but don't know the size or model #.

Also, I'm missing one of the front t slot stops. If anyone has a spare or the t slot nut that fits I can make another.

Thanks,
Bob
 
I don't know the answer on the oiler. But if you measure the diameter of the hole and go to McMaster.com, I think that you can figure it out. You can also get one from Clausing.
 
I also am unable to give a definitive answer on the size of the ball oiler, but I do know that those knee cranks seem to disappear often. Mine is missing also, and a different crank was on the mill in its place. It works but isn't ideal. There was an 8520 knee crank on eBay a while back and it went for $120. Yikes!

I started entertaining the idea of making an adapter to fit on the square knee shaft so that a regular Bridgeport knee crank could be utilized instead. Still thinking about it, just haven't gotten far with it yet. If I get it done, I will post plans for the adapter for the benefit of others such as yourself.
 
Thanks Terry

This am it occurred to me that maybe the ball was just stuck retracted with gunk or something. No such luck unfortunately. It looks like a machine screw and pulling are the way to get these out. I wonder if s previous owner had hit the ball with a pump tip and broke the oiler. I am finding that the pump tip I have wants to do This. As an experiment I got 1/4" fuel line and a hose clamp to put over the tip to act as a seal around the ball oiler. Hopefully the tip will then no longer touch the ball valve, and the oil pressure will activate the ball back.
 
terrywerm said:
I also am unable to give a definitive answer on the size of the ball oiler, but I do know that those knee cranks seem to disappear often. Mine is missing also, and a different crank was on the mill in its place. It works but isn't ideal. There was an 8520 knee crank on eBay a while back and it went for $120. Yikes!

I started entertaining the idea of making an adapter to fit on the square knee shaft so that a regular Bridgeport knee crank could be utilized instead. Still thinking about it, just haven't gotten far with it yet. If I get it done, I will post plans for the adapter for the benefit of others such as yourself.
Click to expand...
 
Good idea on the Bridgeport adapter. Would that be to replace the male stud that comes off the clausing?
 
I haven't figured that out entirely yet, I've only been brainstorming a bit but have not taken any measurements as yet. My initial idea was to make an adapter to mount onto the square shaft. The adapter would be held in place on that shaft with a couple of grub screws or maybe with a roll pin.
 
You might contact Clausing about oilers, they still have some parts available.
If available, this site says ball oilers (547-002) $2.11 ea, front T-slot stop bolt (088-001) $6.96, table stop (709-003) $1.00, nut for T-slot bolt is just a 1/4x20 nut.
http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Clau...nd-Mill/Clausing-parts-price-list-1-11-05.pdf
No luck on a knee crank (133-001).
You might consider just putting a PF on the knee, with a 20:1 ratio takes a lot of cranking to raise and lower.
 
I adapted a BP crank to mine. I found a tool that had a 5/8 square opening, turned it on the lathe to size, and pressed it into the crank. Works fine, but it's a bit long.
I also had a short stamped steel crank with a spinner handle on it. To that I welded a stub of 5/8" square bore tubing (cut from the Millrite piece below). That is what I use now.
My Millrite also uses a 5/8" square, For that one I bought a short length of tube with a square center, tapped a thread in one end, and used that to pull it into a BP handle. That has worked fine for years.
 
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