Will this work?

[Rex Walters]

I would be more worried about the brass than the solder or adhesive. A tailstock wrench isn’t the roughest use case in the world, but it’s still a wrench. Is there some reason not to make a larger nut?

 

[pontiac428]

You've inspired me John. I see that Kipp makes ball-handle clamp levers. I love the look of ball handles, so I thought I'd add them to my tailstock lock, carriage lock, and cross-slide lock (as well as replacing the gib locks on my mill).

Then I saw the prices! (Over $100 for the steel ones.)

Here's how to not pay that much for Kipp- Download the catalog and get your part numbers (it's a wonderful catalog, so inspiring).

KIPP - KIPP Catalog

KIPP Inc. is your source for German quality machine components in the USA, including adjustable handles, cam levers, spring plungers, and handwheels.

www.kippusa.com

Then plug the part numbers into Zoro's search. They come up significantly cheaper. Then Zoro drop ships directly from Kipp, well below retail.

The difference between Kipps and shop-made is the critical ability to clock and reposition the lever so that it is always an ideal throw to engage and disengage the lock.

 

[Tuba Dave]

I would be more worried about the brass than the solder or adhesive. A tailstock wrench isn’t the roughest use case in the world, but it’s still a wrench. Is there some reason not to make a larger nut?

That's also an option. Frankly, this is just a "cosmetic/because it's OEM" issue. The modern wrench works great, I just like the idea of having an original style wrench. So I need to balance the output desired vs input required.

 

[pontiac428]

That's also an option. Frankly, this is just a "cosmetic/because it's OEM" issue. The modern wrench works great, I just like the idea of having an original style wrench. So I need to balance the output desired vs input required.

That makes sense. Maybe drill a hole and put a set screw in one of the four flats in the wrench head, and call 'er done?

 

[RJSakowski]

Here's how to not pay that much for Kipp- Download the catalog and get your part numbers (it's a wonderful catalog, so inspiring).

KIPP - KIPP Catalog

KIPP Inc. is your source for German quality machine components in the USA, including adjustable handles, cam levers, spring plungers, and handwheels.

www.kippusa.com

Then plug the part numbers into Zoro's search. They come up significantly cheaper. Then Zoro drop ships directly from Kipp, well below retail.

The difference between Kipps and shop-made is the critical ability to clock and reposition the lever so that it is always an ideal throw to engage and disengage the lock.

For wrenches that can't be clocked, a good workaround is simply to place a shim washer under the nut. A 360º clocking can be obtained in the thickness of a thread pitch. If shim stock isn't available, a washer of appropriate thickness can easily be made by turning it from a length of bar stock. For a 13 tpi thread and a hex nut, the range of thickness for full clocking would be .013". Add one or two thread pitches to the needed thickness to get a washer which is more reasonable for machining. Another way to make a washer of desired thickness is to glue the washer to a piece of stock with CA glue. Heat to remove and clean with acetone.

 

[Rex Walters]

So I need to balance the output desired vs input required.

If the desired output is original cosmetics, it seems pretty straightforward to make an original looking nut. I’d struggle to make any mod to the wrench look original.

If the desired input is “minimal effort with highest chance of success” then drilling and tapping a hole in the end of some square stock then chamfering and parting off a nut seems to fit the bill.

But it sounds like the goal is to figure out some clever way to modify the wrench. That’s also cool, of course. Heaven knows I’ve gone down some strange paths just to try something new.

 

[Rex Walters]

If shim stock isn't available, a washer of appropriate thickness can easily be made by turning it from a length of bar stock.

That’s precisely what I meant by facing a bushing/washer to length in order to clock a handle.