Will a Stub drill eliminate the need for a center drill?

martik777

Active User
Registered
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
1,135
Sizes 3/16 1/4 and 3/8. I doubt the 3/16 will, but will the others?
 
I do it all the time, but it depends on how critical location is.
 
A split point may . Its only a hole .
 
You need a spotting drill. Not just any stub drill. The angle of the point matters.

I use a 120 degree spotting drill for my 118 degree drill bits.

Proper_Spot_Angle_Figure1-e1489010311911-768x328.png
 
I have 120 deg. spotting drills but use a 60 deg. center drill also. The lead end of center drills is typically 120 deg., just don't go too deep and it works like a spotting drill.

I'll spot drill if I'm worried about accuracy. If it's a quick throw-together bracket with oversized holes, I'll go right to the stubby drills. I have yet to snap off anything as small as 3/32", so must be good for not walking the bit without spotting.

Bruce
 
i've only ever used screw machine drills to start holes, can't say I've had any problems with location that weren't of my own doing. If I need a deeper hole than a stub drill will give me I'll start the hole with a stub/ screw machine drill and then continue it with a mechanics or jobber length drill.

I do have some spotting drills now though, so I'll have to give them a go. One appealing aspect is that if you get the depth/ width right with the spotting drill it can also countersink the hole at the same time which removes one tool change.
 
Depends on the application, the size of the drill and the accuracy required. On the lathe I typically use a center drill to start the hole so that when I follow with a larger drill it will not walk/move off center. On the mill I primarily use stub/mechanics length if drilling into a flat surface, if I am drilling into a curve or angled surface I always start with a short center drill. If I need to drill a deeper hole I will start with a mechanics/screw machine and then switch to a longer drill. I also find that standard length or longer drills will often not produce a straight hole when drilling deep and sometimes will follow with a sized reamer to also address some of the ridging that may occur. Different approaches depending on the machine, application and accuracy.
 
I will often just bring the drill down and touch off several times. Just bumping the drill bit against the material. When I have a good dimple, I drill right through. Never seem to have a problem with the bit walking. I know. I'm a terrible person.
 
Back
Top