Why do I need collets for my mill? Isn't a chuck a lot easier and faster?

Check out the machine scraping posts.
It's not all that expensive if you make your own tools and even a beginner can make a huge improvement in some of the cheap or badly worn machines.
There's also a big pride factor.
 
I've been using collets for my mill for a while and then had one pull out slightly on a heavy cut. I've since switched to endmill holders and all has been well. I now use them for endmills and anything else that'll fit, otherwise it's a collet.
 
Collet Chucks make for very quick changes of tools in the mill.

I use an er32 chuck, spindle nose collets were a little of a pain to swap as I had to dislodge them with a mallet on the draw bar etc. and the er collets grip wider ranges than my original morse collets makes life much easyer.

Stuart
 
CODEMAN said:
My buddy, who's a machinist of sorts, says "save your money and don't bother getting collets for the mill. I've been using just a chuck since I got mine, and it's been fine.
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I've known guys that were sort of a mechanic or sort of a carpenter, etc. They usually sort of got the job done.

Lest you think I'm being a snob I will tell you that I'm not a machinist. I do sort of know what I'm doing some times. When I don't I look it up.
 
The main problem with using an endmill in a chuck is that the endmill can loosen with vibration. This can result in harm to both chuck and person. Endmills can be destroyed and chips flying can cause serious injury.
 
mattthemuppet said:
Um, before you do that, I'd stop and see what others have to say. I was warned off using any sort of abrasive compound on cast iron as the grit stays in the city and keeps grinding away over time. Not a big deal on the bronze Gibs perhaps but I wouldn't use it on the dovetails
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I can see how grit might become stuck in bronze as it is ductile and grains could be pressed into it and trapped. It would then wear away the cast iron the gibs run against. This seems unlikely with cast iron as it isn't ductile. I can see that grit could be trapped in pores in low quality cast iron.
 
John Hasler said:
I can see how grit might become stuck in bronze as it is ductile and grains could be pressed into it and trapped. It would then wear away the cast iron the gibs run against. This seems unlikely with cast iron as it isn't ductile. I can see that grit could be trapped in pores in low quality cast iron.
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cast iron lapping plate?
 
I use r8 collets AND an er40 collet chuck, the collet Chuck is much fast to change tools with, but it does extend the tool away from the lower spindle bearings. I would recommend a collet chuck, no drawbar work, on larger Mills the drawbar can be a pita reaching up and then having to bang on it. The collet chuck is just loosen it and it unseats the collet releasing the tool.
I'm on the wagon with the guys saying to not use a drill chuck to mill with, they are not designed for radial forces, axial only, potentially it could release a tool causing injury or damage
 
The more moving parts you have the more chance for error. That is why Mills must be rigid. The collet is the way to go in the mill. I use a drill chuck only to hold drills.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill is right, buy quality, my ETM/ISCAR collet chuck has a tenth of runout when checked against an Accupro end mill
 
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