- Joined
- Sep 13, 2016
- Messages
- 137
Okay, time for an update. So I managed to find some NOS GFI breakers for my single phase panel. That's good news. I also managed to pull off the switch panel from the front of the lathe. Turns out, the panel bolts on from the front with a pair of socket head screws, one at each end. Once you pull it out, the wire bundle is all that supports it. It has a box that covers all of the switches and wiring. Here are a couple of pictures. The switches seem to be 30mm through the holes on the face of the panel. (Well, the holes are probably 30mm, the threads seemed to be around 29.7xy mm): Here are the pics(the item on the far left is the power indicator socket, near as I can tell):
As I was looking at the motor, and how I'll go about mounting the new one, I noticed something I hadn't before. The clutch linkage runs via a shaft from the front, through a pillow block, and then to a linkage rod to the middle of the gear case. As it is currently configured, it would interfere with the Stearns brake on the motor. Question: Can I manufacture a new rod, assuming sufficient rigidity, that would allow me to move the pivot on the end of the shaft inward(closer to the machine) on the 25mm shaft, so that I could essentially avoid interference with the Stearns Brake? The linkage rod is 14mm with 2mm pitch, about 17" long, center to center of the rod ends. It's perfectly straight of course, but I'd basically make a new rod with two right angles to avoid the interference. Here are some pictures of the problem:
As you can see looking at this first picture, that would interfere with the Stearns Brake.
As you may be able to see here, there's about 2-1/2 or 3" inches of shaft between the pillow-block and the lever, which is simply roll-pinned to the shaft:
Here's a slightly better look at the shaft.
So what I propose is to shorten the shaft, moving the roll-pin hole and the control arm back close to the pillow-block. Theoretically, I could even flip it over on the shaft, placing the rod in the same vertical plane with the pillow-block, and that would basically clear the plane of the inside edge of the motor entirely. Thoughts?
As it is, the Hoffman enclosure that originally came with the lathe(and was missing) is set out about 3 inches to clear that linkage, and hinged on the left edge(as viewed from behind the lathe) allowing it to swing out for adjustment/lube of the upper control arm. I figure to essentially remake that same set-up, although the enclosure I purchased is about 6 inches taller, so will extend up about 6 inches above the level of the gear case. Thinking about this, could I place additional indicator lights and or switches directly through the back of the Hoffman enclosure, so I could see them from the front?
BTW, Jim, that one picture I had posted a while back that showed some sort of contactor or something, I finally retook that picture so here that is:
Lastly, I'm having heck with the pulley. First of all, I'm unfamiliar with this sort of fixture. In these pictures, I've removed the bolt in the end of the shaft for better clarity:
There are no set-screws of any sort I can find. There's a woodruff key, of course
As you can see by the last picture, looking at the back of the pulley, there's nothing there either.
I've managed to better measure the dimensions of the pulley itself. It's very near 9-3/4" outside diameter. It is almost precisely 2" wide, front rim face to back rim face. The belt grooves appear to be very near to 12mm at the top(outside edge), and the grooves are .577" or 14.67mm deep. The central hub doesn't appear to have an offset. I've got to figure out an equivalent, using a taper-bushing type, since of course, the new motor's shaft isn't threaded.
As I was looking at the motor, and how I'll go about mounting the new one, I noticed something I hadn't before. The clutch linkage runs via a shaft from the front, through a pillow block, and then to a linkage rod to the middle of the gear case. As it is currently configured, it would interfere with the Stearns brake on the motor. Question: Can I manufacture a new rod, assuming sufficient rigidity, that would allow me to move the pivot on the end of the shaft inward(closer to the machine) on the 25mm shaft, so that I could essentially avoid interference with the Stearns Brake? The linkage rod is 14mm with 2mm pitch, about 17" long, center to center of the rod ends. It's perfectly straight of course, but I'd basically make a new rod with two right angles to avoid the interference. Here are some pictures of the problem:
As you can see looking at this first picture, that would interfere with the Stearns Brake.
As you may be able to see here, there's about 2-1/2 or 3" inches of shaft between the pillow-block and the lever, which is simply roll-pinned to the shaft:
Here's a slightly better look at the shaft.
So what I propose is to shorten the shaft, moving the roll-pin hole and the control arm back close to the pillow-block. Theoretically, I could even flip it over on the shaft, placing the rod in the same vertical plane with the pillow-block, and that would basically clear the plane of the inside edge of the motor entirely. Thoughts?
As it is, the Hoffman enclosure that originally came with the lathe(and was missing) is set out about 3 inches to clear that linkage, and hinged on the left edge(as viewed from behind the lathe) allowing it to swing out for adjustment/lube of the upper control arm. I figure to essentially remake that same set-up, although the enclosure I purchased is about 6 inches taller, so will extend up about 6 inches above the level of the gear case. Thinking about this, could I place additional indicator lights and or switches directly through the back of the Hoffman enclosure, so I could see them from the front?
BTW, Jim, that one picture I had posted a while back that showed some sort of contactor or something, I finally retook that picture so here that is:
Lastly, I'm having heck with the pulley. First of all, I'm unfamiliar with this sort of fixture. In these pictures, I've removed the bolt in the end of the shaft for better clarity:
There are no set-screws of any sort I can find. There's a woodruff key, of course
As you can see by the last picture, looking at the back of the pulley, there's nothing there either.
I've managed to better measure the dimensions of the pulley itself. It's very near 9-3/4" outside diameter. It is almost precisely 2" wide, front rim face to back rim face. The belt grooves appear to be very near to 12mm at the top(outside edge), and the grooves are .577" or 14.67mm deep. The central hub doesn't appear to have an offset. I've got to figure out an equivalent, using a taper-bushing type, since of course, the new motor's shaft isn't threaded.