Which lathes to consider

skeptonomicon

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I am new to machining, but have some exposure through friends and work. I am planning on buying a LATHE in the <$2000 range (with additional reserve for tooling), but need advice to help narrow down the selection. To give you an idea of the kind of things I anticipate building, I have already decided that my first project is going to be building a gyroscope similar to what was shown on Clickspring YouTube channel. I was originally going to by a Sherline, but thanks to advice on this forum, realized it was probably too small to make such an object. I am now considering a Grizzly, Precision Matthews, and still considering the Sherline with risers. My requirements are to turn a 4 inch disk, to be at least 16 inch between centers, and to be a bench lathe. I also don't want to spend a lot of time correcting manufacturing problems or dealing with customer service, so I am looking at reliable brands. Being a complete novice, I won't necessarily recognize any issues with the lathe, and I won't be able to fabricate any parts to fix it, so I want to avoid no-name or generic imports. My question is, which brands other than the ones mentioned should I be considering. Any advise in this area will be appreciated.
 
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Then, you are not going to want anything made by Atlas! Welcome to the site!!
 
Welcome. Sounds like you want to stay small. Is it because of limited space or you like to make stuff on the small size? I'm going to suggest that you check out Little Machine Shop. I own a LMS 3960 (an upgrade to the 3990). It's a solid machine. I've also have had very good service from them. They also sell a tooling package that will help you get started and even save a little money.
 
Your title says lathe, first sentence says mill, so I'm going from the lathe point of view. These are starting out over your budget. This site has users of every brand, and has a bias toward Precision Matthews which is defendable. I'm not aware of Grizzly having the factories in China(your price range new) produce lathes to a custom specification that PM has for it's orders. PM has a large group of positive reviews, but as with all companies stuff gets through QC sometimes. To my knowledge PM has taken care of any issues, there may be a couple who wish that things could have been better. I bought a 1228 PM lathe, and it has been very good. I had 0 experience with machining, but have learned a huge amount from the group here. Now that I have some seat time, and feel that I could use more size capacity I'm going to go to a 1340GT from PM. Start where you think you'll be happy, and you will learn a lot from the group here about how to do things. You will also find out where you want to go with your machining endeavor. There is no wrong choice, but if you have equipment in mind and ask the pluses, and minuses of different machines here, someone will chime in. welcome aboard.

 
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To do what you want I would look at minimum size of 10" swing x 22" between center size. Most lathes of this size have a quick change gear box which is good as someday you will want chase threads and won't have to fool around with sets of change gears. Other things to consider spindle bore size, some like the Grizzly G0602 & G0752 have a 25mm (.984") spindle bore the Precision Matthews PM-1022V as a 1" spindle bore that extra .0016 does not seem like much until you need it. Tool post the Grizzly's come with 4 position tool post where you will have to shim under the tool bits to get them on center, you will soon grow to hate this type of tool holder and move to replace it. The Precision Matthews has an AXA style tool post that uses interchangeable tool holders you set the tool bit center with an adjusting nut which is much easier. They also make specific tool holders for parting tools, boring bars, etc. You could also look at old iron South Bend, Logan, Atlas but that moves into the realm of how to evaluate a machine tool.
 
Welcome. Sounds like you want to stay small. Is it because of limited space or you like to make stuff on the small size? I'm going to suggest that you check out Little Machine Shop. I own a LMS 3960 (an upgrade to the 3990). It's a solid machine. I've also have had very good service from them. They also sell a tooling package that will help you get started and even save a little money.
I am liking what I wee on the little machine shop. The site is well designed and it seems easy to figure out all the parts I need.
 
Ugh, I did mean lathe, I corrected it. Thanks for pointing that out.
Just to be clear, I have nothing against the lathes being built in China as long as I get support and a reasonable chance of not having to send it back. A US based importer that has good quality controls in place is OK. Being new to this, it is hard to figure out which brands to avoid and which are reputable.
 
The 7x14 lathes can be pretty good little lathes from what I've heard, but they take some work. The main issue being that they are about the cheapest lathes available so they make a lot of cost cuts to meet their budget.
Basically what you get by buying a more expensive one from a place like Little Machine Shop or Micromark is they have already done many of the improvements that people often make to them so you don't have to. I've had good luck with Little Machine Shop for other items, never had any issues with them. They also sell an extended length 7x16.

Once you get into the $1200-1500 range it seems like there is less need to rebuild them, so the higher end 7x14, 7x16, as well as the 8x16, and 9x20. This doesn't mean there is not room for more improvement, but you should be able to start working without fixing up the lathe.
The 9x20 lathes are about the largest that I would consider remotely portable, and at 250lbs portable meaning bring a friend or get an engine hoist. Unless you are a weight lifter you will not be moving it by yourself. The 10x22 lathes weigh about 100lbs more.

You mentioned in your other post you don't have a large space. If you plan on moving the lathe out of the way when not in use, here are some approximate weights to consider.

Sherline or Taig under 40lbs
7x14,17x16 100lbs
8x16 160lbs
9x20 250lbs
10x22 300+lbs

In length you are looking at needing about 3 feet up to the 9x20, the 10x22 needs about 4 feet.


You mention wanting to turn something 4" in diameter and a length of 16" between centers.

The 4" diameter should not be much of an issue for the 7" and larger lathes, but if you actually mean a part 16" long, you will need more than 16" between centers. When a lathe says 7x16 that is the theoretical maximum, but reality gets in the way.

You will not be able to turn a 7x16" cylinder, because (based on the LMS 7350 specs) you can only turn something 4.3" over the saddle. As far as length, "between centers", means between centers, two sharp points that hold the ends of the part, no chuck. Awkwardly for anything too large to fit through the spindle (bigger than 20mm) you will not be able to drill the ends of a 16" piece which is required to hold it between centers.

If you need to maintain some mobility, then one of the LMS 7x16 lathes is probably your best bet. If you actually need to be able to work on a 16" long part, then you will not want to go with anything smaller than a 9x20 or 10x22.


Welcome to the fun, there is a lot to absorb when you first step foot into this stuff but if you like making things it is worthwhile. The lathe is a core tool, so don't short change yourself. I have a Sherline and think it is a great little lathe, and I'd love to be able to recommend one, but it really is too small for the projects you are describing.
For the kind of things you are looking at I don't think you would be disappointed with a 10x22. The PM 1022 is well regarded but is pushing your budget. Look at the tooling a lathe comes with when you are making comparisons, the PM1022 is one of the more expensive lathes in this size but it also comes with a lot of good quality tooling, more than most.

PM is often brought up for its good customer support. Grizzly is sometimes lumped into the "cheap" Chinese like Harbor Freight or random ebay sellers but they are a reputable dealer with a long history. They are a big company so probably lack some of the personal attention you get from a smaller company like Sherline, LMS or PM, but I've had nothing but competent and responsive service when I have bought an item from them. If one of their machines is a better fit to your space or budget, I would not worry about getting support if you have an issue with the machine. Most of the machines that they sell in your size range have been in production for decades.


Vintage lathes can also be a good option, but availability varies widely by location. There is also the issue of knowing what you are looking at so you don't buy a problem. This is usually an issue for people just getting into the hobby unless they know somebody who can go and look at a machine with them.
 
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Aaron, thanks, Great info. Some of this is starting to make sense. The 16" was not a hard requirement, but a nice to have. I think I would be OK if I had 10" between the center and chuck. I was confused by LMS spec of "swing above saddle" when other manufacturers where quoting swing over cross slide. Are these roughly equivalent. Ultimately I would just like to know the diameter and length of the piece I could work, but never expected this would be easy to figure out.
 
Aaron, thanks, Great info. Some of this is starting to make sense. The 16" was not a hard requirement, but a nice to have. I think I would be OK if I had 10" between the center and chuck. I was confused by LMS spec of "swing above saddle" when other manufacturers where quoting swing over cross slide. Are these roughly equivalent. Ultimately I would just like to know the diameter and length of the piece I could work, but never expected this would be easy to figure out.

Yes saddle, cross slide basically the same thing just different phrasing. You are basically looking for two diameters. Using the LMS lathe again, the first, larger size (7") is basically at the spindle, you can face a piece of that size. The second is what fits over the cross slide (4.3"), to turn any significant length the piece has to fit over the cross slide. The closer to that limit the more difficult it will be to do. You can turn short pieces between these numbers so somewhere between 7" and 4.3" but will be limited to how far your tool can reach. The longer you extended it the less stable and prone to chatter it will be. Still this does allow you to turn something wide but narrow that is too big to go over the cross slide, like perhaps a flywheel.
Also the closer you get to the maximum swing, the more the lathe will be tested on its power / rigidity.
 
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