Where would I find a lathe nose protector

[astjp2]

You can start with a plain nut. That is what I did for my Logan with 1-1/2 8 thread (was about $6 a few years ago)

Here is a 2-1/4 8 for $15.50 at McMaster Carr:

https://www.mcmaster.com/90521a050

Will it fit in a collet? oh and I dont have 220 power to the lathe yet.

 

[CluelessNewB]

Will it fit in a collet? oh and I dont have 220 power to the lathe yet.

You don't need to put it in a collet. Just thread it on the spindle and turn it right there in place.

Sorry but you do need power!

 

[benmychree]

I would disagree that the nose protector is there only to protect the threads (from what?) If that were so, there would be little need for the spanner hole or slot on them. I made one for my 9" Monarch and use it to remove the collet nose, a knockout bar, which I also made for it is used to knock out the dead center and it's taper sleeve, the small diameter nose first knocks out the center, then if desired, the larger diameter knocks out the sleeve.

 

[benmychree]

For any lathe or dividing head that I may be liable to make spindle accessories, such as chuck backplates, face and driving plates, and the subject at hand, the "thread protector", or whatever, I always make a thread plug gage to exactly the same size as the spindle threads, verified by a 3 wire measurement or thread micrometer, when doing the threading, I use the gage to fit the threads to the degree of clearance desired. Once made, It is ready for the next job. Making plug gages does not need to take a lot of time, and adds much in the way of precision fit for threads that are not standard in the strict sense of the word, as in coarse and fine series. In Machinery's Handbook there is tabular data of all the "special" thread series with pitch diameters, so the gage you make can be truly made to the standard.

 

[projectnut]

The nose protector on both my lathes (Seneca Falls Star # 20 and Sheldon MW-56-P) will in no way aid in the removal of a collet adaptor. The Sheldon uses 5C collets exclusively, while the Seneca Falls machine originally came with 2S collets and an adaptor similar to the one used for the 5C collets on the Sheldon. In both cases the collet adaptor fits tightly in the spindle taper, and is further drawn in by tightening the collet drawbar against the collet.

The Seneca Falls machine also has a MLA-21 (5C) collet chuck sold by Andy Lofquist at State College Central:
http://statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html

This collet chuck doesn't require an additional nose protector, or a tool to remove the collets

The nose protector is only there to keep debris from the spindle threads and protect them in the event of a crash. The nose protector on the Sheldon also secures the L00 spindle nut and prevents it from rattling around and damaging the spindle threads when the collet adaptor is installed.

The nose protectors on both machines can be totally disengaged from the spindle threads and barely come in contact with the collet adaptor. In no way will they provide enough force to disengage the adaptor from the spindle taper. Both machines require a collet adaptor removal tool similar to the one I linked to in my previous post to disengage the adaptor from the spindle.

 

[Chuck K]

. The nose protector on the Sheldon also secures the L00 spindle nut and prevents it from rattling around and damaging the spindle threads when the collet adaptor is installed.



I made a 5c adapter and draw tube for my Hendey. I need to make an L00 nose protector like yours before I can use the collets. Too many projects, too little time.

 

[Bobby Bailey]

For a cheap, easy, non-marring collet knock out bar I used a somewhere near 3' length of pine closet rod. The kind you get at a lumber yard/home repair place to hang clothes on in the closet.
It works perfect on a Southbend heavy 10, just insert it and use like a slide hammer. One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.
It stays leaned up against the cabinet.

 

[Tozguy]

Not sure if this relates to your dilenma but I made a puller for the MT5 to MT3 sleeve that gets stuck in the spindle. I did not like to hammer out the sleeve with a long punch through the spindle bore. This puller will pop out the stuck sleeve without putting any stress on the spindle bearings.
It is made up from common materials available at most hardware stores. The length of broomstick was laying around the shop.

 

[ThinWoodsman]

For a cheap, easy, non-marring collet knock out bar I used a somewhere near 3' length of pine closet rod. The kind you get at a lumber yard/home repair place to hang clothes on in the closet.
It works perfect on a Southbend heavy 10, just insert it and use like a slide hammer. One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.

Same. Well, mine is an oak dowel, I think 1 1/4". Might make a brass cap for the end, as there is a bit of rattle-room in the 1 3/8" spindle bore. Does its job though.

 

[Tozguy]

One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.

This is important, if you don't catch it it can do a job on the ways. It can really fly.