Whats The Secret....

Of course everyone is free to remove the chuck whichever way they want to. But the only two circumstances where I might resort to any method other than locking the spindle with the back gears and pulling on the chuck key by hand would be (1) a new to me lathe that arrived with a chuck on the spindle and two tries the standard way didn't break it loose and (2) if I had ever been dumb enough to run the carriage into the chuck. Any chuck so fragile that it might be damaged while removing it this way is too fragile to live, anyway.
 
I usually put the lathe in back gear and use a piece of 1' long 1/2" bar through the chuuck jaws. A thump with the heel of my hand is usually enough to get it loose. When I install a chuck I engage the belt with the motor off & thread the chuck on. I give it a spin for the last 1/4", so it thumps solidly, but not too tightly, home. I always oil the threads with straight 30wt non detergent oil before installing a chuck, faceplate, or thread protector.
 
OK. That all sounds reasonable.
 
What I ended up doing was basically what some suggested. I locked the back gear, and used a 1" wooden down between the jaws as a pull handle. it came off quite easily...way easier than expected.
 
Robert I have had to resort to using different methods .. This spinal disability & subsequent operations has left me even struggling to un zip a banana :D
 
OK. That's certainly understandable.
 
I just chimed in on this thread, WOW. I do not have a threaded spindle lathe. But, if I caught anyone putting a crescent wrench or similar on one of my chuck jaws. I would first need to pick myself up off of the floor from fainting. Then it would get really ugly…Dave
 
Back in high school our metal shop had hercus lathes, shop teachers instructions were, "in back gear(lock pin out), block of timber on rear of bed that reaches centre height, using countershaft pulley(large outer one), roll by (one)hand firmly until jaw contacts timber(two trys only). Should be sufficient. If not, lock pin, pipe/bar suitably sized so as not to bend approx 2' long, through jaws perpendicular to spindle, lightly tighten jaws, ease pressure on until thread loosens(no hammers allowed, and no gymnastics practice on the pipe/bar)." After that we had to call him.
If all that fails, then the usual, CRC/WD40 and the like, then some heat.
Took me about a week to get a chuck adaptor off my grandfathers old lathe, that thing had been stuck on there about 50 odd yrs or more by all accounts. Other than that, the only other thing that might cause a real problem is if your thead "picks up" whether due to rust or grit. Then the real "fun" begins.
 
chips&more said:
I just chimed in on this thread, WOW. I do not have a threaded spindle lathe. But, if I caught anyone putting a crescent wrench or similar on one of my chuck jaws. I would first need to pick myself up off of the floor from fainting. Then it would get really ugly…Dave
Click to expand...

I think we may be confusing tools here, I do not know if an adjustable spanner is the same as a crescent wrench in the US. The adjustable spanner is fitted to the side (unused) part of the jaws, and pulled firmly, no hammers or cheater tubes. With a steel jaw and a cast chuck body in compression I fail to see how you could do any damage to either chuck or jaw unless you are the incredible hulk. Please explain how this action could do damage.
 
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