What Model Logan Is This?

Looks like the model 1955 I saw a picture of, it appeared very clean and sold for $1500.
Agreed, scrungy to say the least but under that scrunge may be a decent lathe at $500.
If the ways look decent it may be a good buy.


Ken
 
Ken_Shea said:
Looks like the model 1955 I saw a picture of, it appeared very clean and sold for $1500.
Agreed, scrungy to say the least but under that scrunge may be a decent lathe at $500.
If the ways look decent it may be a good buy.


Ken
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It is a 1955. 3 chucks and no tooling. Some gear noise while running but don't know what's normal. Feeds seem to work but guy had some trouble engaging a few things. User error perhaps. Biggest obstacle other than dirtiness was that I don't really know how to evaluate the ways and the motor is 3 phase. Just don't know if it's worth the cost of a VFD?? List price is $500. He turned down $200 from another guy. Thoughts??? Worth the project or just wait and pay for more tooling and better condition.
 
at that price you should be able to flip it for what you paid, so you'll only be out your time and the price of a VFD (which is probably why it hasn't sold at that price).

Does it have the compound slide? At first glance it appears to be missing, although that may be due to my ignorance. Wear isn't a major deal, but badly screwed bearings or gears are. As long as you can rule out missing teeth, sloppy shafts and rough bearings that looks like a steal to me. Clean it up and use it or strip it down and rebuild it, either way you're a winner :)
 
SDplinker said:
It is a 1955. 3 chucks and no tooling. Some gear noise while running but don't know what's normal. Feeds seem to work but guy had some trouble engaging a few things. User error perhaps. Biggest obstacle other than dirtiness was that I don't really know how to evaluate the ways and the motor is 3 phase. Just don't know if it's worth the cost of a VFD?? List price is $500. He turned down $200 from another guy. Thoughts??? Worth the project or just wait and pay for more tooling and better condition.
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Honest dirt. You can replace the motor with a used single phase one, buy a $105 static converter (or build one for much less), or buy a VFD.

Grab it.
 
Here's one for comparison;

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/4993482630.html


You can see the production style cross slide in the pics, most people prefer the standard cross slide and compound unless you do a lot of line boring or multiples of parts. Changing it back might run you a couple hundred, check eBay for cost. My 1957 is noisy when poer feeds are engaged, just go thru and make sure all visible gears have all their teeth, that's another cost if you have to replace them. Does it have the tail stock wrench?

Not a fan of the colors, but you could probably get your money back out of it if you clean it up and parted it out or re-sold it. And learn something in the process.
 
Ken_Shea said:
You've a good eye Matt,
Casey, I'd inquire for sure to see if it is missing.
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Good eye is right. I was so enthralled it does in fact appear it's not there. Just saw Eeler1's post in my email. Production cross slide. Hmmm. Seems like a lot of work but maybe I shouldn't be so shy. When you are a newbie though it's tough to not know what
you are getting into.
 
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SDplinker said:
I don't really know how to evaluate the ways
Click to expand...

Hey Casey,

I consider getting my first small lathe (Craftsman/Atlas 109) a great experience, not so much because it worked so well, but because it was a fairly cheap lesson in how to better evaluate a lathe.

As posted here:
http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.html

For me I now consider the number one test for wear on the ways is:
1) put the carriage near the headstock (where most of the wear happens)
2) tighten the carriage lock so you can just still move it with the hand-wheel without too much force
3) move the carriage towards the tail-stock and see when/if resistance is felt
you can then play with the carriage hand-wheel and lock to "read" the length of the ways.

This gives a great feel for the wear on the ways when you're "in the field" with no tools.
I am not saying not to buy a lathe with some slop, just to use that as an quick gauge of what your looking at.
Much of it depends on your expectations, know your parts application and your machine.
If I'm working on a regular automotive part or hand tool, then being out 10-20 thou (or more!) might be fine, if it's a bushing or requires close fit I want better.......I _never_ make parts for NASA.
The more you know about your machine the better you can plan to work-around any short comings, and get the accuracy you need for that project.

also see here for much good advice:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/how-to-select-and-buy-a-metalworking-lathe.25974/

-brino
 
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