What is the affordable alternative to this?

A 5c adapter to fit your lathe spindle, used with a draw bar. Next would be the same, but lever-actuated. Next would be a 5c chuck, then the Atlas type you linked to.

Another option is to forgo 5c and use ER collets, which is a much better option in my opinion. If you can find or make a direct mount ER collet chuck then it is more flexible and economic to go with the ER system because a full set of ER collets is much cheaper than a full set of 5c collets. Granted, you won't have the ability to use hex or square collets like the 5c system but then again, you have 3 and 4 jaw chucks.

Some guys really like the 5c system, especially when you have a lot of parts to make from a consistent diameter stock for which you have a collet of the proper size. In a hobby shop, lots of stuff is made from stock or scrap that may not be nominal sized, which is why an ER system is more flexible. Because an ER collet grabs along is entire inner surface, I also think an ER collet is more accurate than a 5c that grabs with only the front 1/2" or so of the collet.

I have both - a 5c system and an ER system for my lathes and I use the ER far more often. Just an opinion.
 
What spindle does your Southbend have?
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
Img_1921.jpg


I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
Img_7597_zpscb8b5dd7.jpg


Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

41VenSpq50L.jpg
 
You can use a four or six sided collet block in the lathe chuck and fashion a draw bar to fit your lathe. I did one step
cheaper and machined a round collet block that I keep in the lathe. Basically there is little cost involved and it is
very accurate. You do need a through hole on the lathe at least as big as the inside diameter of the collet though.
I used a thin wall pipe for the draw bar so I can hold stock at least two feet long. My draw bar uses the inside
threads on the 5c collet so that eliminates using the collet stops. I don't use them anyway. It has worked very
well for me for smaller diameter work up to 1.125 inch. I hold the collet block in a 4 jaw independant chuck so one can
set it up to run true. My total materials expense was under twenty dollars.
 
seasicksteve said:
What spindle does your Southbend have?
Click to expand...
The manual says it's a D-1 type and the chucks have D-5 mounting. (it's nice that Grizzly puts the full manual on line so I can study before the lathe arrives).
 
mikey said:
A 5c adapter to fit your lathe spindle, used with a draw bar. Next would be the same, but lever-actuated. Next would be a 5c chuck, then the Atlas type you linked to.

Another option is to forgo 5c and use ER collets, which is a much better option in my opinion. If you can find or make a direct mount ER collet chuck then it is more flexible and economic to go with the ER system because a full set of ER collets is much cheaper than a full set of 5c collets. Granted, you won't have the ability to use hex or square collets like the 5c system but then again, you have 3 and 4 jaw chucks.

Some guys really like the 5c system, especially when you have a lot of parts to make from a consistent diameter stock for which you have a collet of the proper size. In a hobby shop, lots of stuff is made from stock or scrap that may not be nominal sized, which is why an ER system is more flexible. Because an ER collet grabs along is entire inner surface, I also think an ER collet is more accurate than a 5c that grabs with only the front 1/2" or so of the collet.

I have both - a 5c system and an ER system for my lathes and I use the ER far more often. Just an opinion.
Click to expand...

I suppose I can fabricate some kind of a draw bar. Fabricating things . . . . that's what we do, right? I haven't had any experience with ER collets and will learn what they are. They sound more applicable than 5C if they hold the workpiece along more of its length.
The commercial draw bar accessories are too expensive for me at this time. I'm breaking the bank to buy the lathe. (sold my Bridgeport mill, will sell my 12 x 36 lathe, and some other stuff).
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
Img_1921.jpg


I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
Img_7597_zpscb8b5dd7.jpg


Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

MLA21.jpg
 
You can purchase the draw tube hardened and threaded.
All you need is a spindle taper which holds a 5c and a handle on the opposite end.
Also recommend a thread protection nut...

Daryl
MN
 
Uglydog said:
You can purchase the draw tube hardened and threaded.
All you need is a spindle taper which holds a 5c and a handle on the opposite end.
Also recommend a thread protection nut...

Daryl
MN
Click to expand...
Daryl--
Where can you get the threaded, hardened draw tube? I have a lever action collet closer for my South Bend 10L which came with it, but it's quite worn inside. I think it must have been used extensively without lubrication in its former life because the original ball bearings in the collet "locking-in" mechanism had lots of flat spots and the parts they touched seem to be badly scored. I replaced the ball bearings a long time ago, but while the closer works somewhat it slips sometimes (doesn't stay "cammed over")--and I had thought about switching to the wheel-type closer if I could find or make one.
Bill
 
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