???What have I bought???

Bi11Hudson

Artificer00
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I'm not sure where is the best place to post this, so I'll just throw it out and let the "sysop" put it wherever he wants. To "set the stage", I have a Sears/Atlas 12X36 lathe. 101.27440. . . I have several chucks, 2, 3, and 4 jaw, for various projects. I am an electronicist and a model builder, not a machinist, but with many years of experience on machine tools doing maintenance work. My lathes (both) have a 1-1/2X8 TPI spindle nose. A collet chuck was bought to fit either machine. I have a smaller collet chuck with a MT3 mandrel and 10mm drawbar for ER-25 collets. My problem is that I cannot chuck up long work therein. I work mostly with small (1/4 and smaller) stock. 1/8 brazing rod for brass/bronze rod and the like.

My question: I purchased (from eBay) a collet chuck that was sold as an ER-32. Including a "broad" selection of collets. By the time I got around to setting it up, the sale was not returnable. On setup, it was discovered that the "broad selection" was actually a large number of multiple 3/8 and 1/2 collets. I ordered an ER-32 collet to make sure of the size. It was a fuzz (a hair less than a whisker) too small. The cap on the nose, when fully tightened, will allow the collet to rotate in the chuck but not "rattle". So I ordered an ER-40 out of curiosity. It was too large. It will start in and has the proper taper(I think) but doesn't seat fully enough to get the cap started.

The collet chuck supposedly came off a Craftsman lathe but is not identifiable as a Sears part. It has been my experience that Sears tends to make "things" just a fuzz off size to prevent using common sized "things" as replacements. You must use Sears parts, to their sales advantage, which by this time are no longer available. 65-70 odd years is much too long for a retail establishment to carry parts that have a "safety problem". They no longer carry metal working machines. And few wood working. . . "Kenmore" kitchen stuff is notorious for making a sink just enough smaller to fall through an existing counter cutout. Requiring, for the novice kitchen rebuilder, a complete counter redo, using Sears parts of course. Which won't fit standard cabinets. . . Pause in rant.

So, my options are several:

First: Is there a collet system that predates the common use of ER-xx? And, if so, what is the designation for them? Sized slightly larger than ER-32 but with the same tapers. If this is an archaic system, I can watch for the collets I need. This was a general upgrade with a good price, not job related. As a side note, I have a PorterCable router that is "ancient" but has ER collets on the business end.

Second: Shave the nose 1/8-3/16 to make an ER-32 fit. Looking at it on my desk, this looks to be doable. I haven't actually sat down and measured things to be sure, but it looks like it will work. The salient point is whether the existing collets will fit after this mod. I hate to scrap out precision stuff.

Third: To cut down the inside to the larger ER-40 size. IF I can properly do the work, I may or may not have the skills. The front is hardened. Further, in the future, should I stumble across more collets specific to this chuck, they and the ones I already have would not be usable. I do not fear messing up an increase in size. If it doesn't work out, all parts can be scrapped with little monetary loss. But to scrap out a tool goes against my core beliefs, it can be done, but hurts. . . BAD.

Quite honestly, my preference would be Nr 1 as first choice. But the second would be more likely as a practical solution. Especially as I can acquire metric and odd shaped as well as fractional collets. Internet, what say you? Any and all comments, positive or negative, will be considered. Basically, I have a new tool and would like to use it. But not at great expense.

Bi11 Hudson​

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Are they OZ collets?
 
OK, what is an OZ or 0Z collet?

Edit:
OK, I looked it up, what I have is NOT an "OZ" collet. The taper is far sharper, actually matching an ER-32 collet, just a fuzz larger.

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Not quite clear on the issue, does the ER32 collet snap into the collet nut, but then not tighten down properly leaving some play or will it not even go into the collet nut.

Have you taken any measurements from your collet chuck and compared to the nominal dimensions of an ER32 collet chuck to see where the issue is? How about one of the collets it came with compared to a standard ER32?


Kind of throwing good money after bad but maybe buy a new ER32 Collet nut and see if it fixes the problem. A good quality one costs about $30 and you can get them on ebay for about $11.
 
I have ER32's and different nuts play differently with different collets. Some don't pull the collet back out, they leave the collet behind.
I haven't noticed whether it's when I have undersized shafts in the collet, so it's being squeezed so tight that it comes out of the landing that the collet uses to pull it back out.

My ball bearing nuts is the worst.

I think it's the lack of quality control on the Chineesum parts.
 
In response to Aaron, the purchased ER-32 has a groove for a ring(?), the included collet does not. The collet nut, what I am calling the cap, closes against the supplied collet with pressure alone. When I tried a purchased ER-32 collet mounted into the chuck the same way, it was just enough too deep to compress the collet. It does not move forward or back, but can be rotated with finger pressure. Were I to attempt a piece of drill rod (clean end of a drill), it will not close on the drill. The collet nut (cap?) has a slight internal taper that presses the collet deeper into the chuck, closing it in the process. Were I to fit a ring to the purchased ER-32 and attach it to the back of the cap, it would be loose enough in the chuck to rock side to side.

When the two collets are stood side by side, they are (almost) identical, except for the groove on the new one. As best as I can measure by hand with a dial caliper, they are the same length, and diameter at the top and botton within less than 20 thou. The shoulder is where the groove is on the new collet, so I can't get a good measurement. Both the top and bottom are 1.00 inch(25mm?). As best as I can measure a tapered surface. The diameter at the break(?) with the collet relaxed (sitting on my desk) looks to be 1.435 inch(35mm). The overall length is 1.25 inch (32mm?). When stood side by side with a straight edge across the top, an index card is a smooth fit on the purchased collet. The metric equivelents are "almost", I converted as I went because I wasn't sure if the collets were fractional or metric. The fractional sizes were "almost" an exact match to an even (nondecimal) metric size. The measurements from the "break"(?) to the top is 0.400 and to the bottom 1.25 inch. Again, because of the taper, these measurments may not be exact. The "break" or shoulder is what I call the change in tapers from expanding from the bottom to reducing to the top. I'm sure there's a technical term for it but I must call it as I see it.

In response to Woodchucker, I am coming to the conclusion that this "rig" predates the wide use of ER-xx collets by several years. A threaded spindle nose has not been used on American made machines since the '60s(?). I am sure it's not Chinese made and pretty sure is not Taiwanese. Having come off a supposed Craftsman machine, I am inclined to think it is OEM from Sears. Therefore likely US made. Even as late as the mid '70s, I am not aware of Sears selling Chinese tools. Kenmore appliances were "off" sized in this period, sinks small, cooktops and ovens over sized for this reason. The bottom line here is that the chuck was sold as an ER-32, while being an older configuration that approximated ER-32. The closing nut is threaded USS. The ER-16 and ER-25 chucks I have are threaded metric.

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Having followed up on that information, I have found little more than historically interesting information. It seems I purchased a system that has been set aside for the "ER" series collets. Simple solution all told, just follow option Nr 2 and convert to "ER" series collets. Thank youi all for the insight and pointers to the historical information. I had pretty much made the same conclusion before asking. The input from others has confirmed that conclusion. Makes me feel like one of you, a machinist as much as electrician. Again, thank you all.

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