We'd love to see the process of making a tapered reamer!
Since I got the grinder last year, I've become adept at using it. I sharpen end mills, planer blades, chipper blades. I made a set of parallels, a sine bar, a universal positioning and holding fixture, etc. I even used it to regrind a way on my mill/drill!
It's coincedental that this thread became active again. My SG never really gave the surface finish I thought it should be capable of - that is until yesterday. I noticed what appeared to be backlash in the spindle. So, I popped the motor off the back and found the spider in the Lovejoy coupling was trashed. I picked up a new spider from Grainger for $3.62, installed it and the surface finish is MUCH better. I think it would be perfect if I balanced the wheel.
About 6 months ago, I found that the ways needed some work. A bit of scraping got things straightened out (literally). I now see about 0.0001-0.0002 of thickness variation over the full width of the chuck (18").
I also found that to get a truly flat surface, you need to take very light passes. No more than 0.0002 to 0.0003, preferably 0.0001. Because the machine is not infinitely rigid, if the wheel starts making aggressive cuts, it tends to draw itself into the workpiece by a few tenths ruining the accuracy. While that's fine for roughing (whatever that means in SG context), it doesn't yield the precision the machine is capable of.
I lucked out with the X and Y hydraulic feeds. I did need to replace a couple of seals, but I can't imagine using one of these without a power feed. Talk about tedium and tired arms from cranking back and forth. So, I only use the cranks for small things, like end mill sharpening. It's great being able to set up the DOC, pull a lever and have the entire surface ground while I do little more than watch.
John