- Joined
- Apr 10, 2021
- Messages
- 594
I'm sure the S and B group is small but some may be interested in the VFD conversion I did ( Mark Jacobs did ) on my 1024. The S and B is very similar in build to a Holbrook C13, another English lathe. Unlike the Monarch 10ee, it has both a matrix clutch with a 3.6-1 reduction and a back gear with an 8-1 reduction. This gives a lot of range when ditching the original three speed motor and the useful range is from 0-3000 rpm. I found a NOS TENV 5 hp 1800 rpm motor for cheap and through begging coaxed Mark to do the conversion. System includes forward, reverse, jog, HZ display, two stage braking, and a proximity stop and bypass. Motor has full torque to zero and I can run up to 120 hz. 60hz translates to 1629 rpm at 1-1.
Mark put up with a lot from me and was successful inspite of my best efforts to screw things up. I've rehabbed a lot of old machines but am only familiar with old mechanical contactors likw Allen Bradley 709 and Cutler Hammer 8536, etc. The new stuff, and particularly the inductive sensor made my brain explode but Mark got me through it. He did make me promise to never solder anything he had to use again.
I'm getting used to the new controls and like most of what I specified. Mark wasn't keen on the HZ display and while I like knowing my choices for speed and hz with the combinations available, I could have used the spot to put a remote display for the WJ200 055LF I used. That would have given me more options in some ways although the Trumeter display is OK. I might replace the momentary stop with a larger one that is more obvious to hit but I'm getting used to it. I might also order some laser etched switches for the four buttons with little room for legends, and did add a Tachulator for RPM, and SFM. DRO is actually a mix of Easson and Fagor. Will eventually swap the readout to Easson and more the Fagor to my Moore Jig Bore.
Mark builds a lot of safety into his systems and anyone considering this type of conversion should seek him out. He is very reasonable, even cheap, and gives a lot of free time for questions. I've restored a lot of woodworking machines but am new to metalworking so asked a lot of dumb questions. I'll be asking more here. Also a big thanks to David Best for his help and particularly his new book which is a must read. Dave
Mark put up with a lot from me and was successful inspite of my best efforts to screw things up. I've rehabbed a lot of old machines but am only familiar with old mechanical contactors likw Allen Bradley 709 and Cutler Hammer 8536, etc. The new stuff, and particularly the inductive sensor made my brain explode but Mark got me through it. He did make me promise to never solder anything he had to use again.
I'm getting used to the new controls and like most of what I specified. Mark wasn't keen on the HZ display and while I like knowing my choices for speed and hz with the combinations available, I could have used the spot to put a remote display for the WJ200 055LF I used. That would have given me more options in some ways although the Trumeter display is OK. I might replace the momentary stop with a larger one that is more obvious to hit but I'm getting used to it. I might also order some laser etched switches for the four buttons with little room for legends, and did add a Tachulator for RPM, and SFM. DRO is actually a mix of Easson and Fagor. Will eventually swap the readout to Easson and more the Fagor to my Moore Jig Bore.
Mark builds a lot of safety into his systems and anyone considering this type of conversion should seek him out. He is very reasonable, even cheap, and gives a lot of free time for questions. I've restored a lot of woodworking machines but am new to metalworking so asked a lot of dumb questions. I'll be asking more here. Also a big thanks to David Best for his help and particularly his new book which is a must read. Dave