trepan tool for mill

DMO

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I'm thinking about an alternate method of cutting holes through 1/4" to 3/4" plastic instead of holesaws. I've tried cutting out some of the teeth of a standard holesaw so the gullets can handle more, and though they work better, they don't perform as well as hoped. I've tried one of the 3-tooth carbide holesaws with a tall slot for a gullet, but the teeth are so wide (~3/16") that it seems to require too much effort, and chatter gets really bad.

Has anyone had any good experiences with any of the lesser expensive trepanning tools (not the really cheap ones) that use either one or two cutters that can be ground fairly thin?
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

To help the holesaw clear the chips, drill a hole in the waste so it gives 'em somewhere to go - stops it clogging and makes the cut go a lot better.

For the softer plastics (HDPE, PTFE etc.) I use a Forstner woodworking bit, goes through pretty quickly and gives a reasonable finish (would need cleaning up with a boring tool if cosmetics/surface quality mattered). Gives great plastic streamers too :)

Dave H. (the other one)

664px-Forstner_Bohrer_01.jpg
 
Mainly my problem is the plastic loading up in the teeth and welding on. This can happen within about 3 (slow) revolutions if I don't back out and clear it. Usually I'm doing hole diameters from 1 to 4 inches diameter in plastic up to 3/4" thick, sometimes even larger diameters, and thicker plastics. On thinner stuff the teeth aren't buried much below the surface, so I can be more patient because the work is soon done, but once the shallow waste of a standard Bi-Metal holesaw sink below the surface, about 3 revolutions of good cutting is all you get before having to clear it.

On a standard holesaw, I remove some teeth leaving the alternately set ones(about every third or fourth one), then I sharpen what remains. I make a huge waste gullet between the remaining teeth which affords more depth and dwell time before having to clear. I think whether or not the teeth are widely set, the chips are able to float onto the sides and scrub anyway, and then they melt and weld on. This is even with compressed air, water, soap, etc. So I was attracted to the huge cemented carbide cutter design which would seem to counter this action and be a little more self-clearing. The ones I have found so far are all very thick and require a lot of pressure, more than I expected. Heavy pressure is bad for exiting the work, and it requires a heavier setup all around. Sandwiching the material would help prevent breakage, but I do a lot of symmetrical arrays designed to allow me to both flip and rotate the work to make multiple use of each current setup position, and additional materials can complicate things.

So, what I am hoping for is a compact but sturdy trepanning tool that can allow me to insert a common but specially ground-by-me tool bit that will remain stable throughout the operations, and preferably one that will produce a self-clearing chip. I would love it if I could have that in a single cutter tool so that I didn't have to fuss when adjusting the diameter. Hmm, sounds like a boring head.
A boring head would only work if the setup is rigid and doesn't require the use of a pilot.

It would also be nice if I could have this large-deep-hole cutting functionality with a portable drill, which seems to suggest a 3-cutter design. I've had one of those scroll adjusted 3-blade "holesaws". They're small, weak, and loose, so I don't think much of it for repeatable work. For one-off shallow cuts, maybe good until dulled. If there was a more sturdy one like that, .... it could work.... I wonder.....
Dave
 
For the larger sized holes, you would probably be better off using a boring head with a hand ground trepan bit. I've seen those 3 blade saws, for wood work. I never thought much of then, really.
 
I wonder if there is a clever way to adapt one of these two-bit type circle cutters so that the cutters remain self-centering while adjusting the diameter setting?
Dave

View attachment 33056
 
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You could make up some setting blocks in pairs, once you got it set. One fit between the main arbor and the cutter holder on each side. Mark them and use them to set up. Otherwise, it would be a case of a matching LH and RH threads, like parallel clamps or a turnbuckle.
 
You could make up some setting blocks in pairs, once you got it set. One fit between the main arbor and the cutter holder on each side. Mark them and use them to set up. Otherwise, it would be a case of a matching LH and RH threads, like parallel clamps or a turnbuckle.

Yep, that's what I was thinking about. The LH/RH threaded shaft could float through a captive knob and the initial centering could be locked in place with a setscrew in the knob. The tool holders would be improved or replaced to hold a about a 3/16" or 1/4" square HSS tool bit ground on one side only, or the centering adjustment could be readjusted once to accomodate unique toolbits.

Hmm, maybe a silly idea.

Dave
 
It's probably a workable solution, but I can't tell from here if the thing is rigid enough to do the job. I would guess that for the larger diameters, it might be a little light.
 
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