Tramming tools/indicators

Once you learn the most basic way of doing a task, that is when you should advance to the next, better method.

You should know how to sweep a table with a DTI. It is a pain in the butt, I have to admit. I hate it. It takes nothing for it to snag on the tee-slots if the mill is out more than 10 thousandths or so.

A normal dial indicator is not as bad, though.

But once I got that down, I made a 6" EZ-tram type rig. It works great, very easy. Simple to make - a square stick with a shank pressed in, two 3/8 holes. I used split clamps on mine, a set screw would be just as fine, for holding the indicators.

I donated it to the school I went to, though. It will probably be forgotten and thrown out, but I don't need it.

Anyway - not sure how factory-made EZ-trams, are, but a homemade one is not as simple. The two DI's may not be exactly in the same position (by may, I mean aren't - it helps a lot if they are similar though). To use one - put it in the spindle. Get a 1-2-3 block, gage block, small surface plate, etc. - a flat piece with two parallel sides - and put it on the table. Position the table so both DIs will be able to hit your precision block, whatever it may be, by turning the spindle.

Zero both indicators on the block. Then, using the knee, lower them to the table. See how the difference is, and correct as needed. Going off of one dial as the "master" dial and the other as a reference dial, get them both to 0.

There are some good YouTube videos on tramming a mill - one by our pal Tubal Cain, the other by some guy from the northeast, in particular.
 
I have to admit I am one of the lazy bunch. I bought the tramming tool when they had them on sale for 89.00 IIRC and it does come with a nice fitted case and directions to eliminate errors. A really nice tool, but I would never have spent 100.00 bucks for it...

Bob
 
Hi. Thanks for all the info. It makes perfect sense to me when both indicators are calibrated, one at a time, on the same spot on the table. This eliminates the angle error that most chucks/collets have. Now the tool can be used with both indicators facing the front or side of the machine where they can be read easily. I also see how the tool can make tramming easier and faster. I also liked the idea of using a small magnet to use as a calibrating post. It stays put while being used. Thanks for all the work you just caused me. I now have to make one for myself. At least I have all the material needed. Now if you guys could just give me some free time, everything would be perfect. Thanks again.
Lee
 
OK, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to have to build one just to see how it works out for me. You just added to my list of projects, and I have too many now.:rofl:
 
Lgotcher said:
Hi. Thanks for all the info. It makes perfect sense to me when both indicators are calibrated, one at a time, on the same spot on the table. This eliminates the angle error that most chucks/collets have. Now the tool can be used with both indicators facing the front or side of the machine where they can be read easily. I also see how the tool can make tramming easier and faster. I also liked the idea of using a small magnet to use as a calibrating post. It stays put while being used. Thanks for all the work you just caused me. I now have to make one for myself. At least I have all the material needed. Now if you guys could just give me some free time, everything would be perfect. Thanks again.
Lee
Click to expand...

It eliminates the angle error but it does not eliminate the cumulative indicator error.
 
I've put this out there before, but if you get a good quality bearing race of a decent size (like Timken 6"+), it's easier to sweep the table with a DTI because the t-slots don't interfere. Less than $10 on ebay, normally.
-Ryan
 
I use one at work for setting up the heads on our open mills (Trak DPM's, Bridgeports) after maintenance. They make it fast and easy to get real close enough for production work. Tim
 
Smudgemo said:
I've put this out there before, but if you get a good quality bearing race of a decent size (like Timken 6"+), it's easier to sweep the table with a DTI because the t-slots don't interfere. Less than $10 on ebay, normally.
-Ryan
Click to expand...


I hit up my local brake shop for a junked brake rotor. Check it for true then use it as above. Same difference, just may be more accessible (and perhaps cheaper).

DaRiddler
 
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