Took the plunge:New PM30MV

D

Dlb21964

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Hey everyone. After years of messing around in my shop with drill presses, pliers, hand drills, busted knuckles etc…I took the plunge and bought a PM30 mill. I also purchased the adjustable stand with it, on PMs recommendation. Spent the weekend getting it installed, and even did it by myself. :arm flex:

I plan to use it to make parts (mostly) for several hot rod projects I have going on.
So now, to the stupid beginner questions.
I’ve done a ton of reading about how I need to make sure the mill is level, square etc. I’ve almost read so much that I’m paranoid about not being able to set the mill up the right way because I may not have all the tools on hand to do so correctly.
I do have a few gauges and magnetic bases, and I believe I have a set of tram gauges stuck somewhere. But I don’t have a precision level (easy to get) or a granite square (expensive and a one time purchase I would guess?) to perform the adjustments I’ve seen all over YouTube.

I know I probably need to take a deep breath and just relax but I’m OCD and my excitement has turned into a bit of being overwhelmed at all the steps I’m assuming I need to do for the mill to work correctly.

Is there a list of tools anyone can point me to that I’ll need to check/adjust this thing?

Thanks so much in advance.

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nice looking machine. I am not sure you need a precision level for a mill, just a dial indicator to tram the head to the table.
 
Short and simple. Make yourself a caveman tram. You need a 1/2" steel rod from box store, a way to bend it, 1/2" collet or endmill holder, a cheap DTI and I used 2x4x6" blocks. You set the blocks across the table at each end. Make sure gibs are tight and smooth. Bend the steel bar 90 degrees a couple of inches from one end. Shorten bar so that the DTI when attached will sweep across blocks. How you attach DTI to the rod is up to you. It must be secure and not wiggle. My rod has a hole in the end and a setscrew to lock the DTI holder. Swing from side to side until DTI shows little or no change, adjusting head, which is a real PIA until you get the hang of it. Set the table locks so they drag or lock at each end becuase you will see a diferece in readings. My PM30MV is 3 tenths different from one side to other. There was an actual You Tube video called Caveman tramm a couple of years ago. Also Blondihacks demonstrates what I am explaining in one of her videos. That is it in a nutshell. The tools you described above are what you use when setting up an item or making, marking the material. Nice to have and you will use all of it sooner or later but not needed to dial in the mill.

Any ordinary carpenter's level will work for leveling the machine. It does not have to be level. BUT it does have to be rigid! it could be several degrees down on the front or side and will not effect the operation. Mine is about 1/4 bubble out left to right. I question the leveling feet you are using. My mill is on a wooden base resting on 4x4s. Decent but could still be better.
There 2 reasons to get a mill table really level. The first is to keep your coffee cup from sliding off :) the other is to use a small level in preliminary setups to get close before using a DTI or dial indicator for final adjustment.

I am going to make a set off blocks that attach to the head with adjustment screws for tramming. Since you just got it, your probably not at the stage of drilling and tapping holes in the mill. Figure this first time out an hour or two of frustration and swearing to get what you want and then you will have to do it all over again several more times as it wears in before it stays. The mill is quite capable of pretty accurate work but it will take a long time and a lot of learning to get there.
 
I agree with Mr ddillman. I have a 728 and just verified and adjusted the tram.
I have not checked the nod, forward and rear tilt, on mine as it is not adjustable but if I note any issues with say a fly cutter I might check. Truth be told I used to have a Grizzly mill and the nod was off. Used some brass shims to adjust and was never very happy with it. I’ve only had the 728 for approx 1/2 a year and at this point I‘m playing the ignorance is bliss card. . Enjoy the mill. I’m no great machinist but have found the DRO and mill have really helped my ability to drill much more accurate hole locations.
 
Chewy said:
Short and simple. Make yourself a caveman tram. You need a 1/2" steel rod from box store, a way to bend it, 1/2" collet or endmill holder, a cheap DTI and I used 2x4x6" blocks. You set the blocks across the table at each end. Make sure gibs are tight and smooth. Bend the steel bar 90 degrees a couple of inches from one end. Shorten bar so that the DTI when attached will sweep across blocks. How you attach DTI to the rod is up to you. It must be secure and not wiggle. My rod has a hole in the end and a setscrew to lock the DTI holder. Swing from side to side until DTI shows little or no change, adjusting head, which is a real PIA until you get the hang of it. Set the table locks so they drag or lock at each end becuase you will see a diferece in readings. My PM30MV is 3 tenths different from one side to other. There was an actual You Tube video called Caveman tramm a couple of years ago. Also Blondihacks demonstrates what I am explaining in one of her videos. That is it in a nutshell. The tools you described above are what you use when setting up an item or making, marking the material. Nice to have and you will use all of it sooner or later but not needed to dial in the mill.

Any ordinary carpenter's level will work for leveling the machine. It does not have to be level. BUT it does have to be rigid! it could be several degrees down on the front or side and will not effect the operation. Mine is about 1/4 bubble out left to right. I question the leveling feet you are using. My mill is on a wooden base resting on 4x4s. Decent but could still be better.
There 2 reasons to get a mill table really level. The first is to keep your coffee cup from sliding off :) the other is to use a small level in preliminary setups to get close before using a DTI or dial indicator for final adjustment.

I am going to make a set off blocks that attach to the head with adjustment screws for tramming. Since you just got it, your probably not at the stage of drilling and tapping holes in the mill. Figure this first time out an hour or two of frustration and swearing to get what you want and then you will have to do it all over again several more times as it wears in before it stays. The mill is quite capable of pretty accurate work but it will take a long time and a lot of learning to get there.
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I appreciate the reply. The stand is PM (Chinese) but in all honesty it’s very stable right now. Very very solid in fact.

I’m sure that it could be much better.
 
Yes. I have the same stand. It is bolted to a 3/4 plywood resting on 2 4x4. I have wheels on the plywood so when you remove the 4x4 it can be moved. Check out mounting a 2x4 on the wall and attaching a brace from the top of the mill to it. You can use the mill as is free standing but the brace will be all the difference in the world when you try to do serious machining, like trying to take a .025 DOC instead of .010. The mill will start to vibrate and chatter because it is not heavy enough to absorb the vibrations. Some times you can change speeds a little and some times not.
Roughing end mills help. Sooner or later you will have to hog out a1/4" or more on something and then realize the benefit in taking less cuts deeper.
 
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