Thumbz does it again! Help needed on SB H10 Extended Spindle Gear!

HMF

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View attachment 33754

How stupid can one man be? If it's me, sky's the limit.

I scribed two lines alongside the key opening, lined up the extended spindle gear for the handlever collet closer, and carefully tapped it on using a block of wood as a buffer and a plastic mallet.
Success!

Woops! NOT! I forgot this spindle retainer ring. Stupid, stupid, stupid.
Gear has to come off again. But how?

Used the puller with a bar of steel across the opening to brace the bolt. All that accomplished as to scar the gear with puller jaw marks along the edge (probably not harmful but stupid).

Help me please. How do I PROPERLY use this 3 jaw puller to remove the gear again, so I can put on the retainer O ring and then put the gear back on?

Thanks a million!

Nelson
 
You're going to need a plug that will fit with clearance inside the gear, but larger than the ID of the spindle. There should be a dimple or some feature on this plug to assist in centering the puller's pilot if possible. Main thing is that the thrust must bear on the spindle so that the gear can slide off.

You might even go so far as to machine a split ring to guard the back-side of the gear.
 
To help with the scaring place something like old real copper pennies between the puller and the gear. Beware not all pennies are alike. It you can not turn a new piece to fit like Tony suggest then you can cut a square piece of steel that you file off the corners to fit inside the gear. 3/16 or1/4" will work. Think of making a stop sign.

Did you lube the shaft before knocking the gear into position?
 
Ok, some fixes, some problems.

I used a 5c collet placed thread first into the spindle as a "pusher" for the bolt on the puller.
The extended gear came right off. As usual, my initial ignorant efforts scarred the side of the gear for nothing. Live and learn.

Then I replaced the gear. It went right on with hand pressure and a few taps when I got to the key.
One casualty was the fibre washer with the pin. It broke in two. I couldn't figure out if it went in the slot or outside with the takeup O ring and trying to fit it, it broke. Maybe Ted Pflugner has extras.
View attachment 33757
The gear does not line up 100% with the other reverser gear train (see pic).
View attachment 33758
Do I need to move the gear out a bit? Also, the configuration of everything on the spindle puzzles me- not sure I have it right. The pulleys move, and when I engage the back gear, the middle pulley moves slow. Everything needs a cleaning. The oilers are there, but I have replacements I bought from Ted I will put on. The Gits oilers both unscrew. I may want to put the brass and glass ones on- look nicer.

Anything glaring about the way the spindle and pulley assembly looks?
View attachment 33759

Nelson
 
To my eyes it looks pretty good. If you do. Ot have any interference turning by hand you should be good.
 
To get an idea of what turns what, put yourself in place of the motor. That means turn the cone by hand and observe what happens. In back-gear,the spindle should turn at a "slow" ratio to the cone, with many turns of the one to one of the spindle. The ratio get closer to 1:1 as you run normal, out of back-gear. It should be easier to turn in back-gear, because you have a larger mechanical advantage.

I don't see anything out of place there.
 
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