Threading A Rifle Barrel

MattM

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I want to thread the muzzle end of a rifle barrel to accept a suppressor (1/2x28). How do I hold the work?
 
tapered barrel?

speaking of muzzles..i saw this today....apparently they don't want you to miss..

FullSizeRender 57.jpg
 
the start of a story ending with "and that's how I blew off the end of my foot."
 
What size lathe do you have? Is the barrel capable of passing all the way through the spindle? If so use a 4 jaw on the crown end of the barrel with aluminum pads to protect the finish. A spider will be needed on the far left side of the headstock to hold the chamber end. Both ends need yo be dialed in with a ground rod of your caliber.
If the barrel wont fit through the head stock, then a steady rest will need to be used.
It all really depends on your equipment.

Sent from somewhere in East Texas by Jake Parker!
 
13x36 Clausing. The tapered barrel passes all the way through.

The barrel is only 22.5". Since it will be turning slow do I need a spider? Instead of a four jaw could I use a collet?

This is a scrap barrel that I'm learning on.
 
If its not tapered in the area where collet goes, it would be a great choice.

I've supported the back end with a shop cloth wound around the stock real tight and shoved inside the spindle hole.
 
I've used a small diameter live center in the muzzle end for support.
 
Spiders-inboard and outboard; dial in chamber and bore. Or outboard spider and 4-jaw chuck. Or outboard spider and collet.

Alternately, with tang dialed-in in 4-jaw chuck and steady rest out near the muzzle.

Always dial in the bore, not the OD, as a good number of barrel ODs are not concentric to the bore.

Lots of ways to skin a cat. I'd try the collet method. Just make darn sure the chamber end is well supported and running true.
 
I agree with the spider at the rear. They are very easy to make.
 
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