Tailstock mounted pencil grinder for chuck jaw truing?

This is the way I do it. In this case grinding the 5C taper in a collet chuck. Harbor Freight air die grinder.

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Did you make the attachment or is that commercially available?

Not sure this is even a good idea... but... would making a soft jaw to attach to the existing jaws a worth while idea here? From the picture the existing jaws seem a bit short already, and grinding a bevel on them will only decrease that more... I don't see stuff like this mentioned anywhere so I am just tossing out ideas for public consumption...

Nice little diy project. Ever notice that small projects soon become big projects by the time you factor in all the additional steps and tools required...

Wouldn't bother me. Right now it's a chuck I can't use...for much. Oh my project list... lol :)

Paul
 
The reason I'm even considering any of this is for a 3 jaw chuck that I have mounted/bought a while back. But the jaws are completely flat.
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Not sure what to do with them?

Paul
I think I'd braze some 1/2" drill rod with a flat milled on them to each jaw then I'd mill the angle on each jaw . After that I'd grind a shallow curve on the three jaws. Just how I'd approach the problem.
 
Paul, I also have a Dumore 44-011 tool post grinder with all the extra stuff...
 
So I'm guessing you'd advance the cut or grind by tightening the chuck jaws? Make a pass with the lathe running, back the tool out, shut off the lathe, turn the chuck key a little and repeat? As Bob mentioned above, you'll be limited in diameter unless you bevel the jaws. Might be easier to just mount a die grinder on the close slide as Rich mentioned above. Nice L-W chuck by the way, have one of their dividing heads. They made great quality stuff.

Bruce

I've watched a couple of videos on U Tube where an outside ring was held on the jaws so that the backlash was represented when tightening inward. This eliminates backlash floating and assures the jaws are biased in the clamping direction. For non-reversable 1-piece jaws, one could use appropriately sized beam clamps on each jaw since there are no reversing screws normally used with 2-piece jaws. Longer screws with sleeves in the outer holes of 2-piece jaws as well as beam clamps on 1-piece jaws will provide something for a ring to clamp onto when tightened inward. (edited)
 
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