stuck chuck

[RandyWilson]

At least on my 14 1/2, there is still a considerable amount of inertia in the motor, belt cones and geartrain.

 

[woodchucker]

Simple steps.

Bake sure NOT in back gear.

Gear train off.

Get a chunk if 2 X 4 2 ft long.

The biggest hammer you can find and a helper.

Chuck needs to have something in it and snug and magic will happen.

Observe the flat in the hole for chuck wrench as it needs to be parallel to ways

Now rotate chuck to where the chuck wrench is straight out in front.

Place the chuck wrench into the hole.

Have the helper hold the 2 X 4 across the chuck key snug to the chuck.

Smack it with the hammer GENTLY.

small hammer you need speed nut large hammer has more energy so gentle smack usually will do it.

Rotate and repeat with 1 or 2 smacks on each hole and it should come loose.

Last time you installed it you may not have seated it and it seated while using.

We usually give the last 1/4 turn a rapid spin and that seats it and removal not to bad.

Nooooo. The hex he had in the jaws was better than this recommendation. The hex in the jaws is a natural action for the chuck, banging on it like you are suggesting is a good way to break the casting, or the pinion gear which has a journal that rides in the casting. Either could break.

 

[Tozguy]

Seems to me that if the jaws are removed and a close fitting steel bar is slipped into one of the vacated jaw slots that we could smack or torque on that more safely than by wrenching on the jaws or by smacking the chuck key.
My first choice for holding the spindle would be a heavy duty strap wrench, the very best one I could find at any price.

 

[porthos]

well, just ordered a $65.00 strap wrench. that means that i'll probably get it off before the wrench arrives. thats ok it'll be worth it

 

[Bob Korves]

This is probably not the time to say it, but I am sure glad my lathe has a D1-4 camlock spindle. OHOH, I do have a dividing head with a 1-3/4"-8 spindle, and I played hell getting the chuck off after I bought the used dividing head. So I do feel your pain...

 

[Tony Pisano]

NOOOO, that is sure to break a gear.

We used this method often in the shop, and it often works. You aren't putting the machine in back gears, the spindle is free turning so there is no chance of damaging anything.

 

[tq60]

Nooooo. The hex he had in the jaws was better than this recommendation. The hex in the jaws is a natural action for the chuck, banging on it like you are suggesting is a good way to break the casting, or the pinion gear which has a journal that rides in the casting. Either could break.

Having the jaws closed on something makes the chuck a solid piece.

This method is not mine as we read it someplace.

The impact of the hammer is against the side of the scroll spindle which should be against the side of its hole.

a different version was to back out the jaws to where one was protruding outside of the chuck and either with brass hammer or large mallet smack it there but we prefer using the chuck key.

The force is then in the proper place and in the proper direction to jar it loose.

And the amount of applied force is not that much compared to operation of the machine.

The hex in the chuck is in the center where leverage is not good resulting in much more force to be applied to get it busted loose.

 

[mikey]

Would two strap wrenches work? One on the belt positions, one big one on the chuck ...

 

[woodchucker]

We used this method often in the shop, and it often works. You aren't putting the machine in back gears, the spindle is free turning so there is no chance of damaging anything.

You assume he does not have a gear head.

 

[Tony Pisano]

You assume he does not have a gear head.

No assumptions. My original comment was on freeing the chuck with out putting in back gears, and without pounding on anything. Either with the chuck wrench, or a pc of stock between jaws, and by hand a quick clockwise motion and quick reversal in direction, the chuck would often come off